Ledkz1300 wrote: Thanks Kawboy.
Whatever caused the plug on cylinder 1 to be wet and black has changed because after a little drive it is now whitish like the others.
I used the laser the laser heat gun. All of the cylinders except for number 4 and 6 are within 5-10 degrees of each other as measured at the pipes 1 cm below the collars. About 60 C. Number 4 (which is actually number 3 in the picture as it is reversed) is about 80C, while number 6 is about 40 C.... which is really weird because it is the bluest pipe by far.
I did this twice to get an average and it seems to be holding that way. It is not super accurate because 1 cm in difference in the measuring spot changes the temp by a few degrees.
So based on the white coloration, all of the cylinders are a bit leaner than they should be.
Despite the fact it looks like all cylinders are firing I still feel like there is a miss under load. The exhaust tone is just not completely right. Maybe I am imagining things? Acceleration seems a little rough at lower Rpm... under 4000. It smooths out above 5000.
I also hear an odd rattle pulling away at very low rpm. I remember the same sound from my old one many years ago. This bike also made the same rattle with its old engine in it.
If you're using your heat temp gun on the pipes and coming up with 40 - 80 C then you must be checking them just after starting and while the engine is warming up. The bluish on the pipes will be the result of temps up around the 700 F- 900F mark. The further down the pipes the blue runs, the hotter the cylinder is running. DG pipes will show a lot of blue compared to stock pipes because the stock pipes are a dual walled pipe. the inner pipe carries the majority of the heat while the outer pipe only sees the radiant heat from exposure to the inner pipe. That bluing effect is happening after running at moderate load to high load. If you want to understand what's happening in the engine, take the bike out for a rip down the road and then pull over on the side of the road and check the pipes with your heat detector. You'll probably see upwards of 1,000-1,100 degrees F
I just pulled this from a welding sight. The discoloration of stainless pipe and the required temperatures to achieve the different colors. Being a welder in the past, we used to keep an eye on the discoloration during a weld out because the Chromium would parcipatate out of the stainless if you continued to weld at elevated temperatures. It was an undesirable property of stainless since when the chromium came out of solution it would leave hardened particles in the welded area which would cause cracking of the weld under pressure.
Colour Formed Approx Temperature C pale yellow 290 straw yellow 340 dark yellow 370 brown 390 purple brown 420 dark purple 450 blue 540 dark blue 600
As for the noise at just off idle- I hate to be the guy to point his out, but someone should. It's probably the primary or secondary chain. If the idle gets smoothed out from a carb cleaning and balancing, then the rattle MAY disappear. In any event, it would be prudent to check the chains if for nothing else, to know what service life is left on them.