TOPIC:

Do you still have that electric solenoid on the fuel system. It causes the fuel to have to travel too much vertically. If things get hot and there is a bubble of vapor in the downward traveling section it can slow the fuel flow to naught. Loose the solenoid valve. It serves no good purpose. Try to route the fuel lines so that you get as clean a downhill run as you can from the petcock to the carb inlet.
Best of luck.
Bill

Yes Im still using the solenoid.I thought about taking it off. I was leaning toward a pulse fuel pump also.

Could be the fuel line itself, braided line could split inside, fuel gets in and heats up swelling line shut, cools down and opens, or a sharp turn in the line is ok till hose gets hot from air from bike and the kink closes off, try a better quality bike fuel line, 5/16" if I remember right, seems like the only explanation if everything else is clear and flows well, wouldn't think the petcock would work ok when cold and then stop when hot. I had a bad fuel filter that wouldn't allow enough fuel flow through it when driving at speed, ok when slow or idling, got a better flue filter and got full flow at any speed, just some ideas, cheers Pete.

I would be removing the petcock for a very close inspection and give the solenoid a good long look at the dumpster so as it can contemplate it's future and as Pete said new fuel line as some of the older fuel lines can swell a lot inside due to the ethanol

My fuel line is new. Could the rubber seal in my petcock be swelling even though the petcock is only a few months old? I used to have clear fuel line from my petcock to the filter and when the engine got warm I could see fuel empty from the clear line and fuel just stopped flowing from the petcock. would the fuel solenoid make this happen?

In my opinion, your filter looks fine. If you check some of my previous posts about carbs, fuel-line routing - you'll notice I use a substantially smaller fuel filter. Have been for many many years, without any concern or volume of flow. Get rid of the solenoid-shutoff and route the fuel line more appropriately. I've converted three sets of carbs to and "End-feed". Previous articles will show this. Although most won't be bothered to or feel uncomfortable doing so, it (again in my opinion) is the best way to get fuel to the carbs. In fact I'll go as far as stating it should be the only way to get fuel to the carbs ! Drilling-out and Tapping the outside port of the right hand carb is straightforward but does require the carb. be removed and partially disassembled. If you rationalize with the, "shortest distance between two points" and "shit runs down hill" theories - it is the only way to feed fuel on these machines. It has never made sense to me why there are those who still insist on a convoluted "up/down/all around" fuel-line that in some cases will require several feet of fuel line. With this philosophy you might just as well tie the fuel-line in a knot for all the effectiveness it provides!

www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/carburato...el-line-routing#5155

Having an effective fuel line routing to get a consistent delivery to the carbs will also provide you with a type of diagnostic tool. Once you've established a correct and efficient means of delivering fuel, you can now rule out this as a problem, when you have an issue, and focus on the real concerns creating a problem. (Instead of guessing - I wonder if I'm getting fuel?")