TOPIC:

Yes, that's the one.

Thank you for drawing my attention to the thread on it. None the wiser re having to cut the spring or not...

I'll have a think to see how I can measure the force applied between the two tensioners...

In the meantime, I have inserted new shims and the gaps are now all within limits. Saturday I will further button up the engine, cylinder cover, battery cover, two side covers, then fill it with oil. Lastly, when I know what to do (to cut or not to cut..), insert the new tensioner - which btw needs painting!

Paul

Right, engine is all buttoned up, top and side covers on, oil in..... tried to crank it over on the starter connected to a battery charger.. nothing. It feels like its stuck.

So I extracted the starter and tested it on the bench. It took a second to get going, then spinning at what seemed a low rate.

So I took it apart to see if it needed cleaning etc. t didn't. Clean as a whistle inside, great coal brushes, very little coal dust, everything looked great, so I cleaned it as much as I could, greased the bearings and put it back together again. Bench test with same result. Engine test: still not able to turn over the engine.

Is that maybe:

1) despite it turning on the bench, the starter is still defective
2) the engine is stone cold and because it has just been rebuilt, its a little stiff
3) I am using a charger rather than battery
4) all of he above?
5) anything else I have missed?

If I feel like it tomorrow I may take the one out of my KZ1000P as I know that one works really well (and is a four brush one rather than a two brush one) and see if that works.

Paul

Depending on the output - in amps - that your charger is capable of, I think it is unlikely that there will be sufficient current to operate the starter properly. I suggest using the bike’s battery, and some leads at least as thick as the one which feeds the starter on the bike. Good luck!

Regarding the cam chain tensioner, I suggest searching the forum for posts on this subject - there are many,.
Opinions vary as to which is the best option in overcoming the original tensioner’s shortcomings. There is information on shortening the ZX11 tensioner spring, and I do know that member strate6 has performed this several times, and is confident that the result is satisfactory on all the many 1300s he has owned. Other folk have opted to modify the original tensioner, but retaining the factory fitted spring, due to concerns about the strength of the ZX11 spring and the possible resulting overloading of the tensioner gear and roller.

So between the starter and the battery is the starter relay. If the power contacts in the relay are burnt, that may be your problem.

When you hit the starter button, does the relay click? if not you'll have to sort out that issue. There's a cut out switch in the side stand I believe that knocks out the starter button circuit so you can't try to start it by mistake with the drive wheel on the ground and the bike possibly in gear. Also, there's a lock out on the clutch lever for the same reason. You have to pull in the clutch. Lots of issues with the clutch lever switch and the side stand switch. Usually rears its ugly head on a bike that sat idle for a number of years.

You can always apply battery voltage to the starter lug in position to bypass all the control circuitry to confirm the starter one way or the other.

biltonjim wrote: Depending on the output - in amps - that your charger is capable of, I think it is unlikely that there will be sufficient current to operate the starter properly. I suggest using the bike’s battery, and some leads at least as thick as the one which feeds the starter on the bike. Good luck!

^ this. Unless your charger has a 'Start' mode, it won't put out enough juice.