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That I didn't expect assuming all turns freely, and the valve springs are very strong for the job as well.

I want be repeating what Kawboy just said, but if you had to overcome some resistance when turning the engine by hand at first, that would point to timing problem and valves getting in each others way. It also worries my a bit what you said regarding machining, although valves sitting deeper would move them away from each other. Curious about the update.

I know what I did wrong. I'm such a bozo!

Studying Kawboy's diagram for a while it struck me (it's so simple once you tweak what you did wrong - I blame the cold!)

I counted 17 links from the timing point at 9 o'clock, not from the one at 12 o'clock!

See if I can do a leak test tomorrow (fingers crossed!) and if all OK, try again.

Paul

Do you hear anything when listening closely to the engine when turning it? Anything rubbing or clicking? I'd buy a mechanics stethoscope and listen.

I think I'd start with removing the camshafts and trying to push the valves manually with a wooden hammer handle and see how it feels (pistons of course down on those being checked). Then remove the shim and the bucket and do the same. If the valve would stick then it would mean the stem and guide being sticky, which of course they shouldn't. It would indicate being either too tight, or bend. I can't imagine all buckets being so tight they don't move. It's puzzling indeed, considering the free movement when turning the engine and if you set the timing right. And considering ALL do the same, it's most likely connected the the same cause affecting all of them all at once or each at the time. It would be easy to elaborate but I think it's best to check them first.

Here is timing on my bike:

Just read your last message as you posted exactly when I was posting. Well, if timing was not set right that does change the perspective. To correct this would be the starting point, then a leak test to confirm all is well if you want to be meticulous.

Right, all is well. Camshafts are in and this time I counted from the right timing mark. Everything is running smoothly when I turn the engine.

One minor issue is that some of the valve clearances have changed (four exhaust 1, 2, 5 and 6 have gone smaller by 0.1 and inlet on No 1 cylinder has to be increased by 0.1)... I hope this is not because the valves have been damaged. I have ordered new shims but I guess I will have to do a leak test to be sure. But although I have a compression test set, I have no access to compressed air....

Paul

Bike pump?