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Great write up again Neville! As some expressed it, there's been a stir about the resistors and coils - I'd suggest it's been because some still have questions and there's been still not enough explained, not because they are ignorant or being an ass. So, thank you again for digging more into this AW82-TR1 coils!

From what I learnt, using these coils, I will go within the 2.7 - 3.6 Ohm range calculated from stock Kawasaki coils and resistors as safe. My stock resistors show 1.7, the AW82 coils I have show 2.2. So 1.7+2.2=3.9 is too high. Alternative resistors should be used and I think 0.5 to 0.8 are a safe bet, but based on happy stories of members using 0.4, I will just search for good middle road and good value 0.5 - 0.6 Beru or similar resistors, having all three the same value. One coils shows 2.3 Ohm and I think it's negligible.

The mounting holes - I might drill them out. I wonder why Kawasaki used those brass tubes instead of straight bolt on. Something with the heat? Vibration? Creating 'softer' barrier between the bolts and the coils to prevent stress and avoid cracking? I'll see how easy or hard drilling those holes is.

maniac

To test the secondary resistance on the Kawasaki coils, the meter is connected to the two spark plug wires coming from each coil - after removing the plug caps of course.

I imagine that AW82 coils are tested in the same way, BUT they might well have a different resistance range to the Kawasaki coils. So long as the secondary resistance is within tolerance for the AW82 specification, it won't matter to the 1300, if you get my meaning.

StanG wrote: .....The mounting holes - I...... I'll see how easy or hard drilling those holes is.

The cores will be made of laminated strips of soft iron. Should be pretty easy to drill out.

I wonder if those mounting screw bushes are BRASS to reduce the effect of eddy currents in the laminations, brass being non magnetic. Could you use smaller diameter bolts, Stan, as Neville said, and retain the bushes? If not, it probably won't make a huge difference to the coils function if you do drill them out.

Could be about magnetic field as well in the mix. Perhaps just simple protection of that core from the bolt's thread and damage it might inflict when servicing or vibration when riding. Perhaps a thermal barrier between them and the frame? Something interesting to research where this particular choice of material comes from.
As you see in the photo, I already replaced the original bolt with a stainless steel one, which is almost non magnetic comparing to regular steel.
The bushings go into the hole, then the bolt goes there. I didn't understand what Neville said about smaller diameter bolts - the original are not big enough to be used with AW82 coils on their own without being too loose - you'd rather need a larger diameter and skip the bushings which want fit unless those hole enlarged, and if that's done, then no need to change the bolt's diameter.

Well, im now chasing other issues. as mentioned, I only got spark on one coil pack, the one connected to the blue wire. I connected the other coils to the blue wire, and they sparked. So it looks like the igniter is the issue as well. I am looking at the pickup coils and they look brand new. the wires arent dirty at all, and the actual pickup coils are nice, clean, and shiny. I am feeling like its the igniter. I dont have a manual fro the "b" but I checked the ohms on the B/G/BL/By/YR buckle (which goes to the ign coils) and they seem to be in spec. I have continuity from that buckle on the wire harness side to the barrel connectors that connect to the coils. There is another buckle on the igniter which is R/B/Bl/Y/lG/dG whic goes to the pickup coils. Both are disconnected but I am having a hard time finding how to test those.