Water pump seal internal housing

When I removed the mechanical seal, the metal surrounding the spring remained in the block. Pic on LHS. The Z1300.de part (center) and Amazon US Seals PS-1000 are a 'unit' meaning the spring and metal sheath are one.

Anyone have words of advice? I didn't recognize this until just now when updating the other post. 

My best guess would be that the OD of the spring and the ID of the cup are an interference fit and if you were to rotate the spring in the direction it is wound, it will shrink and come out. Looking at the middle seal and the one on the right- the springs are wound opposite to each other, so you would turn one clockwise to reduce the diameter and the other counterclockwise.

that also brings to mind that when looking for a replacement seal, it's probably important that the spring has the same winding. I would think you would want to rotate the seal in the opposite direction to the winding otherwise there might be some chatter in the seal faces as the one face rotates against the stationary face if that seal face was trying to work against the spring. ( I hope that makes sense ??)

Red arrows say it all. Lower left arrow is the metal housing that remained in block.
It should have come out as one piece, with the spring and sealing component.

Should look like the center and rhs units, with metal 'cup' surrounding the spring.
I tried to disassemble, remove the spring from does not fit PS-1000 unit... Failure. It must be glued.

Not sure how to proceed to remove the housing from engine block. My only experience with stuff like this a blind seal on motobike countershafts. For that I drilled then used self tapping screws. Two small vice grips and the seal wiggled out.

This one, however.. I don't imagine there's any 'space' or void to drill without damaging engine block. Don't wanna go there..

Only thing I can think of is to carefully use a drift and start mangling, err, I mean 'persuading' the outer lip inwards. Or maybe carefully use a small Dremel?

Looks like Ray used some kind of sealant when he installed the seal, so it's not going to simply wiggle out easily?

Looking for advice please?

Looking at the diagram copied from Partzilla, you need to remove the mechanical seal retainer item #8 from the cylinder head and you should be able to drive out the  mechanical seal from the retainer from the back side. Be CAREFUL how you support the retainer and don't crack it in half. And you're right, the PO glued it in place so I would consider heating it up a bit first to breakdown the glue before attempting to drive out the seal.

 

I have a bad habit of thinking I know how to do sh#t. Then I followup up by overthinking what I think I know when in reality I don't know sh*t! 

Soooo, remembering my favorite nuclear procedure writers mantra, RTFM!


KB, Thanks for putting up with me. 
 

Progress today! After RTFM, discovered the backing plate assembly is removeable.Bought a couple of bolts w' big heads then pulled the assembly out. EzPz when you know how!

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Some muck. Wish I'd never used stop-leak.

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The oil seal is sealing.. Going to leave it alone.

Drilled a hole to allow clearance, then pressed the seal housing out.. 
Almost 1/2 way out here, but is hitting the wood.

Almost.