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Electrical
LOST SPARK?
- AERIAL0
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9 years 7 months ago #7586
by AERIAL0
Replied by AERIAL0 on topic LOST SPARK?
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9 years 7 months ago #7594
by Ager
Replied by Ager on topic LOST SPARK?
You think this is your problem then Lauri in Finland is your man
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9 years 7 months ago #7595
by Ager
Replied by Ager on topic LOST SPARK?
If it is the three main transistors i could find the code out from my mate he got them in NZ would have thought you could get them or i could send you some
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9 years 7 months ago #7605
by scotch
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
Replied by scotch on topic LOST SPARK?
This is sounding more like reversed polarity to the coils. I won't copy-n-paste any of the articles but there are some interesting topics regarding this easy to make mistake. It could certainly account for the blown transistors.
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
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9 years 7 months ago #7613
by AERIAL0
Replied by AERIAL0 on topic LOST SPARK?
Re reverse polarity to the coils? How can this happen unless your foolish to connect the battery the wrong way. Have been reading FAQ on forum to try and gain more info re proplem and to date not noticed anything re reverse polarity. Shall be installing new coils this week and doing away with the ballast resistor. Just need to get igniter unit sorted. :woohoo:
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9 years 7 months ago - 9 years 7 months ago #7618
by scotch
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
Replied by scotch on topic LOST SPARK?
Have been reading FAQ on forum to try and gain more info re problem and to date not noticed anything re reverse polarity.
My suggestion was to get you thinking "outside of the box", not necessarily to pin-point the specific cause although that would have been favorable. . Of course you wouldn't connect the battery in reverse. According to what you've told us - all the wiring checks-out. Additionally you've cleaned the elec. connectors. Therefore there is a real possibility (sitting here thousands of miles away without the luxury of having your bike in front of us) that if you removed the terminals from the block to clean them and especially if several were removed at the same time - the polarity could have been compromised by replacing them out of sequence. It's not that difficult to do and at this point can not not be discounted by anyone offering solutions.
Challenging times, these vintage bike electrics. Diagnostic Tree-charts are great when it's all shiny and new. Put old bikes into the hands of several others prior to your obtaining them and with virtually no knowledge of what's been "HACKED", you have no alternative but to think in a different mind-set once the manuals diagnostics have been exhausted. Keep in mind something else; Getting meter values per the manual (for example pg 243-K11) doesn't end at merely getting a reading. With so many combinations it's VERY easy to get a "-" reading, think it's merely because you have the probes reversed, change the probes polarity, see the reading you want to see and not realize that MAYBE that pair is reversed (somewhere). Ask me how I know.
Another Theory; If wriggling the Kill-Switch gives intermittent/inconsistent readings then I'd be suspect of a high resistance constant contact (a partial grounding even when ON) which could be causing a conflict within the igniter circuit itself. If not the switch then a similar "short" elsewhere. A single strand of wire can act as a "jumper' between two separate circuits and potentially leave you with the issues you are experiencing. Nothing in FAQ's regarding that either but it doesn't mean there haven't been others with a similar problem. Just means no on has supplied a viable solution. Maybe because they discovered something as embarrassing as a couple of wires reversed after 12 pages of thread provided nothing.
Remember the "the Fun" with the old style Christmas lights. One "Blue" burns out and ALL the blue are out. Then you had to pull every blue bulb sequentially - replacing each with a known good bulb until all the Blue come on again. And it's always the last bulb you check that's the culprit. You can not discount anything until you've actually fixed the problem.
"You don't drown by falling in the water; you drown by staying there."
My suggestion was to get you thinking "outside of the box", not necessarily to pin-point the specific cause although that would have been favorable. . Of course you wouldn't connect the battery in reverse. According to what you've told us - all the wiring checks-out. Additionally you've cleaned the elec. connectors. Therefore there is a real possibility (sitting here thousands of miles away without the luxury of having your bike in front of us) that if you removed the terminals from the block to clean them and especially if several were removed at the same time - the polarity could have been compromised by replacing them out of sequence. It's not that difficult to do and at this point can not not be discounted by anyone offering solutions.
Challenging times, these vintage bike electrics. Diagnostic Tree-charts are great when it's all shiny and new. Put old bikes into the hands of several others prior to your obtaining them and with virtually no knowledge of what's been "HACKED", you have no alternative but to think in a different mind-set once the manuals diagnostics have been exhausted. Keep in mind something else; Getting meter values per the manual (for example pg 243-K11) doesn't end at merely getting a reading. With so many combinations it's VERY easy to get a "-" reading, think it's merely because you have the probes reversed, change the probes polarity, see the reading you want to see and not realize that MAYBE that pair is reversed (somewhere). Ask me how I know.
Another Theory; If wriggling the Kill-Switch gives intermittent/inconsistent readings then I'd be suspect of a high resistance constant contact (a partial grounding even when ON) which could be causing a conflict within the igniter circuit itself. If not the switch then a similar "short" elsewhere. A single strand of wire can act as a "jumper' between two separate circuits and potentially leave you with the issues you are experiencing. Nothing in FAQ's regarding that either but it doesn't mean there haven't been others with a similar problem. Just means no on has supplied a viable solution. Maybe because they discovered something as embarrassing as a couple of wires reversed after 12 pages of thread provided nothing.
Remember the "the Fun" with the old style Christmas lights. One "Blue" burns out and ALL the blue are out. Then you had to pull every blue bulb sequentially - replacing each with a known good bulb until all the Blue come on again. And it's always the last bulb you check that's the culprit. You can not discount anything until you've actually fixed the problem.
"You don't drown by falling in the water; you drown by staying there."
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
Last edit: 9 years 7 months ago by scotch.
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