LOST SPARK?

I fitted Aw82 coils as described below They bolt straight up you can fit new leads to them and the end caps are available new from automotive shops as well.

www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/electrica...-z1300-kz1300-how-to

For what it's worth, I picked up a set of CBX coils from Z! parts Inc. listed on Ebay for $98 U.S. They are aftermarket direct replacements with a primary resistance of 2.5 ohms. Great price for 3 brand new coils and at 2.5 ohms you can put them in and remove the ballast resistor. I've done some research and I've heard great results from those who have replaced their coils with the AW-82 coils (CBX coils). I can't attest to the output since I've not installed these yet.
If you do your research you'll find all kinds of info on coils but the manufacturers will not divulge the pertinent info. There's a ratio between the primary windings and secondary windings in number of turns which affects the voltage increase between the primary and secondary. All coils are different. My view on this is that the power in equals the power out. The advantage to using these coils is the ability to remove the ballast resistor which is a little less than half the primary circuit draw and now your plugging that power through the coil there by increasing the power in the coil.
I had 3 severely cracked coils and for $98 US I don't think I can go wrong. The other great thing is that they will bolt right up in place with no modification to the mounting. You will have to do a bit of wiring since the coils have spade terminals and the original coils had pigtails on the primary circuit wiring.

Well, you are almost right, Kawboy! That primary/secondary windings ratio you speak of is what determines the MAXIMUM voltage POSSIBLE, but not the actually firing voltage at any given time. If the air/fuel ratio and temperature, plus the cylinder pressure, plus the quality of the fuel all combine into the correct "soup", the plug will fire at as little as about 3500 volts. But, if the "soup" needs more, like at higher rpm, compression or unbalanced air/fuel ratio, the voltage can go as high as about 15,000 volts before the spark can jump the gap. The "soup" determines the voltage it takes for the spark to jump the gap, not just the simple ratio of primary to secondary windings. Aftermarket coils will have more turns in their secondary so they are CAPABLE of higher voltages for more demanding racing conditions. But, this also requires much better dielectric insulation materials, hence, higher prices!

Agreed, aftermarket coils should have the ability to produce higher voltages. The original primary circuit had a draw of around 4 amps and by changing the 1.5 ohm coil plus the 1.5 ohm ballast resistor out for a 2.5-3 ohm coil achieves the primary purpose of not loading up the igniter with a higher demand and pushing the same amount of power through the coil ultimately should result in a hotter spark.

Hi guys.
Thanks for info re coils. Took a gander on Ebay and found item 161248690775. Would this be what i need? If so 1 problem. Stated for shipping to uk could take up to 10 weeks? plus would have to pay the import duty :blink:

Just spent yet another day trying to locate no spark? Though did have a low spark on all six and tried to fire up? Then no spark at all
So took off IC unit and checked all resistance's as per workshop manual. On all female connector pins all readings ok, but on the male 6 pin connector lacking readings. Which shows that transistors gone belly up? Unable to understand why blown. As bike running great and only left for a week to find no spark. Could faulty coils have caused the problem. Have got the new coils to fit as yet, but any info why the transistors have blown would be helpful as would not be a happy bunny if order a new IC unit and the same happens again.