battery not charging

Hi all,

I have done a search on the forum on the above topic and not really found what I need, so another question on this subject.

Today after about 20 miles, it stopped dead. I have a Lithium Ion battery, a Mosfet regulator and a Motogadget electronic fusebox. So if there is no power to it the latter cuts everything off. I used my ignition key to bypass it and bump started the bike (hard work!) and rode on, hoping to make it to work. No such luck; five miles later, dead again, this time properly.

It turns out the bike is not charging, so when I set out the battery was full but it slowly drained it. 

I have charged the battery now and the battery shows 12.7V when not running and 12.5V when idling... and no change whatsoever when revving. I would have expected it to jump to 13.5V or 14V.

I have done no further investigation as not sure where to look.

What do I measure where to see what is not working? 

Cheers
Paul

Yes, you should see a jump in voltage as the RPM increases.  If you have an 'amp clamp' handy, an easy check is to measure the amps in each of the three phases (yellow wires) from the stator.  If they're not the same - the stator may be hooped, but you need to check the resistance from each leg of the stator to the two other two legs to confirm it is the stator that is hooped.  If the stator resistance checks out, then probably the R/R is hooped.

Thank you, that gives me something specific to look at. But I'll have to borrow an amp clamp, so it might take a few days. 

In terms of resistance 'from one leg to the other', not sure what you mean. Do I need to take the stator out to do that or can I do that by clipping to the wires?

And how would I check the R/R (which is less than a year old btw, do these go wrong much?).

Cheers
Paul

I have a Shido Lithium-Ion battery in mine and am weary that there are specific instructions that the battery must not be charged with a voltage greater than 15.7 volts (can't remember exact figure).

I know this worried me as I once, inadvertantly, bought a dodgy clone Shindengen mosfet reg/rect that was supplying 18v!

Could it be that your battery is protecting itself with some cut out circuitry due to over voltage?

Hi I would go by the book, and first measure voltage across yello wires going out of generator while engine running at 2-3 k rpm. It should than read about 70  volt ac if im correct. Secondly short cirquit test of the generator windings against engine case. Should that be ok than the rectifier test.
Hier the link to info on generator windings.
www.kz1300.com/index.php/forum/electrica...tator-coil-rewinding

Regards

Thank you. I did not have time to do any measurements as had to go to work. I'll do this weekend.

BUT ... the mystery deepens.

Today, after a full nights' charge on the Lithium-special charger, the battery read 12.7V before starting her up. I then ran 20 miles, but did not switch my headlight on, and after 20 miles battery read 12.9V. Eh?

But still no change when revving the engine, so still not charging... 

Paul