Turn signal blink rate rises with engine RPM's

RM Stator also offers a 50 amp series regulator for lead acid batteries @ $ 189.00 CDN  50 amp Series Regulator for lead acid batteries

Please correct me if I am wrong but my understanding is that the SH775 is a series type regulator which effectively "switches off" current from the stator when not needed.  I researched this fairly extensively during my issues with stator overheating and therefore selected this over the FH020 as whilst this unit is more efficient than the stock original fit regulator, it is still a shunt type which ensures that the stator is delivering its maximum available current at all times.  The SH775 and FH020 are identical in size: W: 90mm, 84.5mm, H: 32mm whilst the SH847 is W: 120mm, 135mm, H: 40mm.  The 847 is also a series type and clearly a more capable product with much higher rating but I did not select this as the specs are far higher than needed for the generator/stator fitted to the early Z1300's and also too large to fit under the left hand side panel.

Neville wrote:

Please correct me if I am wrong but my understanding is that the SH775 is a series type regulator which effectively "switches off" current from the stator when not needed.  I researched this fairly extensively during my issues with stator overheating and therefore selected this over the FH020 as whilst this unit is more efficient than the stock original fit regulator, it is still a shunt type which ensures that the stator is delivering its maximum available current at all times.  The SH775 and FH020 are identical in size: W: 90mm, 84.5mm, H: 32mm whilst the SH847 is W: 120mm, 135mm, H: 40mm.  The 847 is also a series type and clearly a more capable product with much higher rating but I did not select this as the specs are far higher than needed for the generator/stator fitted to the early Z1300's and also too large to fit under the left hand side panel.
 

You're right. My bad. The SH775 is a series regulator. I guess I got over zealous and relied on my 66 year old brain while writing the prevous post. I went back in and corrected it. I hate miss information. Sorry for that.
 

Excellent video from Roadstercycle on how to spot a fake Shindengen regulator:  

Neville wrote:

Excellent video from Roadstercycle on how to spot a fake Shindengen regulator: 

There 

There are so many fakes out there - my advice, if not buying new from Roadster Cycle, is to buy a used one from a breakers yard that has been pulled from a Triumph or BMW

I'm resurrecting this post just to close out the topic for I think the problem is solved.  Despite everyone's advice regarding the regulator, I had kept the rpms under 5000 where the signals were so fast that they almost remained steady, especially the right; 5000 rpms was nearly fast enough at 80 miles per hour.  It hadn't occurred to me to simply check the regulator connections until recently.  Sure enough, one connector had a moderate amount of corrosion.  After cleaning it up, I took her out and though the rpms blink faster at higher rpms than say 3000, it stabilizes around 4000 (I didn't note the exact point).  I burried the 85 mph needle on the way home fairly confident that I'm not cooking the battery.