UK ZG1300A1 DFI fault

I had got to a point of trying to get the bike running, but I have no spark at the plugs

The DFI code points to a pick up coil issue 2 long and 3 short flashes so I checked the pick up coil resistance appears ok
Following the manual I went on to carry out the engine speed signal test on the green No.8, black No. 18 and Blue No. 3
pins, both the black and the green showed battery voltage or near to however the blue No. 3 pin only returned 0.64 volts

I have 12 volts going to the coils but have found that on 1/6 coil I have got 12v on both of the wires ,

Any help will be appreciated

Gavin

After splitting all the connections and giving a soaking in electrical cleaner and replacing the connector to the coil I sorted the signals to the controller all wires show battery voltage, the 12vots on to the 1/6 coil was sorted by stripping the loom and finding a couple owires that the insulation had broken down one being the black wire to the civil the other a switched live.
The bike has eventually started albeit running rough as it improves at every start up I am presently thinking that it is down to gummed up injectors, so tomorrow I will put some injector cleaner in the tank and see what happens

Hopefully you're on the right track with the thinking that you have a varnish issue. I fear it may also be a result from the ethanol in the fuel leaving a white deposit similar to aluminum oxide in the fuel system. If that material flows to the injectors it will get trapped in the pintel filters in the injectors. The only way to clean that out is by dismantling the injectorsand servicing which usually means an ultrasonic cleaning and replacing the pintel filters. And the final is testing them for flow. Last time I had this service done, it cost $30 per injector.
Just thought I'd throw this out there.

Thanks for that Kawaboy, I plan to try the cleaner first so I don't have to take them off the bike, but there is a place near me that specialises in servicing injectors, as I mentioned in my earlier post that it is starting and running better every time I try it.
It ran without me on the throttle yesterday evening, only briefly mind you, but it did run.

Well I spoke to soon with regards to running the bike now does not start so I have started carrying out some testing
So far
Pick up coils checked - OK
Coils checked -OK
Injector wire test (page 3-12 in supplement) OK
However
Control Unit power supply test (page 3-9) the yellow and blue wire No. 7 pin should read Battery volts when ignition on reads 0 volts
Starter Signal test (page 3-17) the red and black wire No.19 pin should read Battery volts when ignition on reads 0 volts.

I have carried out a continuity test and there are no breaks in either wire from the relay conector to the DFI control unit connector also checked there is 12V getting to the relay

Both these tests relate to the main relay, what puzzle me is that that engine turns over and I have a decent spark,

should I start the search for a new relay or could the problem be elsewhere

Cheers

Gavin

Ok so a few things come to mind here. I followed your testing through the wiring diagram and basically when the ignition switch is closed, it closes the main relay. As soon as the main relay is closed you should see battery voltage at pin #7 and you have o V. So either the ignition switch is not closing the relay, or the relay is closing and the contacts in the relay are corroded enough to not make the circuit. So, I would turn the ignition on and off several times and listen for the main relay to open and close. if it doesn't you need to test the ignition circuit. If the relay opens and closes, then you need to check the upstream side of the relay and the downstream side and see if you have power going through the relay. Personally I suspect the relay. usually I will open up the relay and visually check the points inside for pitting. It's a simple relay with a pull in coil and the two power contacts. Can't be worth more than 10 bucks and I suspect it's a generic 10 or 15 amp relay. On a Volkswagen there's probably 15 of them. Note that there are times when you could check for voltage on each side of the relay and see voltage, but the contact my be bad enough that only milliamps can pass through the contacts when in fact you need 30 amps going through at full load. That's why I tend to pull relays apart to verify and usually I end up replacing the relay.
hope this helps
KB