Question about timing on A1

Ok i'm confused again, still trying to get the motivation to put the coils in, in the meantime I did check the yellow wire that goes to the ballast block, no power when key is off, turn key on and full 12 volts, but then I looked at the post about the GM coil box and the wires do go to the neg side of that and the other three go to the Pos side, sounds good to me, maybe I had the multi meter set wrong, or power was coming thru from the other connection on the coil, i'll take the other wire off and try it again, I hate electrics, hate loathe detest and get confused, bloody electrons never go where I want them to

Ok I did a good job, new connections on ballast block, shrink wrapped over the connectors, weird thing is that the ballast block mount only lined up with one bolt on the coil, other end flapping in the breeze so to say, but old / new original coils back on, turned her on, wind wind wind, damn, full choke, wind wind wind, DAMN !!, no choke ... wind wind wind, bit of a fart and a run and a stop, DAMN DAMN DAMN !!!! , look up ... forgot to turn on fuel from aux fuel tank .. stupid pete ... wind fire run, spark to all 6, check timing now that the timing light works, spot on, enough for tonight, seat and tank back on tomorrow, and take it to work to see how she runs, cheers Pete.

Bike back together, tank on seat on, started it and the miss is back in 1 and 6, I have a spare igniter so I swapped that over, still missing, if I had hair i'd pull it out !!!, only thing I can guess now is that there is a short or a broken wire from the igniter to the coil, i'm at my wits end, why is this happening ??, what the hell is wrong with this thing, frustration and getting really pissed off, down tools and walk away, will investigate on the weekend

kza13 wrote: Bike back together, tank on seat on, started it and the miss is back in 1 and 6, I have a spare igniter so I swapped that over, still missing, if I had hair i'd pull it out !!!, only thing I can guess now is that there is a short or a broken wire from the igniter to the coil, i'm at my wits end, why is this happening ??, what the hell is wrong with this thing, frustration and getting really pissed off, down tools and walk away, will investigate on the weekend

Ran on all 6 the night before and then you put the tank and the seat back on and then lost #1 and #6?? That tells me somthing. ?????

So what's it telling you ??, all I get from it is a reference to an old Disney movie .. Chitty chitty bang bang (joking)

Don't know if you bolted down that "flapping-end" but am wondering if the Ballast-R terminal for #1 & #6 is touching the tank ?
What are you using for Coils?
Not likely you've got 2 bad "Triggers". None-the-less I'd put them in the freezer for a few hours then check them for continuity - Let them come back to room temp. then heat them up with a hair-dryer 'til they're good and warm and check them again. This will rule out an open-short for #1 & #6.
Disconnect each harness plug and connector in the Ignition circuit and clean the terminal ends thoroughly. The only way I've found to do this thoroughly is to remove the M & F spade connectors from their blocks and go at them with a piece of Scotch-Brite™. Some 220grit can be folded a couple of times for stiffness and wide enough to fit into the female connection. Same for the "Bullet" connectors!
Don't use liquid jewel cleaner or similar metal cleaning dips or solutions. They'll wick into the wire........ and being corrosive......!
Check terminal "crimps" for a secure grip and ensure no wire strands are broken. If there's corrosion visible it's probably migrating under the insulation. In this case cut the wires back; a bit at a time until you're into clean wire. You shouldn't have to remove more then 1" if it's bad. How much will be determined by the worst one. If you've cut off the Spade-ends to get into some clean wire then replace the M & F ends with new ones - soldered! This will rule out electrical continuity concerns and barring mechanical issues if the problem still persists then this would suggest a problem with the ignition controller.
Check the Ballast resistor per the manual. Pages 240/241 in my manual. The voltage drop through the Ballast-R is only apparent (I believe) when the circuit is powered and completely connected. Ignore the voltage reading. All you're interested in is the resistance readings/continuity.
Just some ideas because it's not clear to me what year/model/modifications/diagnostics have been done.