Kawboy's restoration/conversion of a 1980 KZ13

If you needed valves why not have stainless valves made with correct stem length to make your new base circle work? Ive worked on engine projects where the valves had to be sunk on purpose, and it works but I always feel as of there is a better way...

Is this going to be a carburated project? Forced induction? Rocket boosters....

Kawboy,

I talked to the original owner of my latest Voyager to learn all I could. He said he bought a cam/exhaust kit from Norris cams back when the bike was new. It is reported to add another 32 hp and not hurt the mileage. It sure makes the Voyager sound nice, but I haven't been able to see how much power difference it makes since the clutch on this bike also slips from the wrong oil being used.

On two of my previous bikes I have used Norris cams and really liked them! My Gold Wing project used them to get 180hp. But, that was many years ago. Have you checked with them, or any of the big cam grinders, like Crane? I know Crane never gets rid of their profile blanks so they can offer any cam they've ever ground at any time in the future. I've used Crane cams in some of my V8 engine builds. I trust the big grinders because they have done extensive dyno testing to get the best grind for the purpose.

trikebldr wrote: Kawboy,

...but I haven't been able to see how much power difference it makes since the clutch on this bike also slips from the wrong oil being used...

Hi Bruce, You probably know this but the most likely reason the clutch on your Voyager slips is because it has two fewer disks. Ma Kaw fitted a smaller clutch to give more ankle room on the Voyagers. I know that the larger clutch cover from the KZ will fit but I haven't yet found a source for new clutch disks.
Bill

Tyler wrote: If you needed valves why not have stainless valves made with correct stem length to make your new base circle work? Ive worked on engine projects where the valves had to be sunk on purpose, and it works but I always feel as of there is a better way...

Is this going to be a carburated project? Forced induction? Rocket boosters....

The wife (Pat) won't authorize the purchase of JATO rockets since reading about one of the Darwin awards regarding a JATO rocket on a Chevy Impala in Arizona en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JATO_Rocket_Car

so the decision for now is to work with the carbs. I'm really curious to see the results when tuning the carbs with the wideband O2 sensor. I'll be able to dial in the main jets and metering rods based on the oxygen content left in the exhaust which is the primary way the fuel injection computer decides the fuel injection pulses for the injectors. It will be a permanent mounted gauge on the bike so I'll be able to see what happens under different weather conditions and help me select the best jetting / metering rods for all round riding.

I have a spare cylinder head that I might work up with port injection just for giggles but let's face it the intake tract is just not conducive to high flow rates.

I contacted Manley valves and asked if they could make me up a set of valves but their blank stock is too long and if they shortened the valve stems to the required length, the hardness of the tips would be lost. ?????

We'll have to see what grind I can find and how deep the valves end up in the head and go from there.

Thanks to All for the suggestions. I'll check with Crane and Norris and see what they have to offer.

Cheers
KB

That air fuel ratio device looks very interesting. I look forward to hearing how you get on with that.
What are your aims with the cam regrind? Will it shift the torque peak higher up the rev range/ I'm sure you don't want to lose the low end pull that these engines have.
Good luck, and please keep us posted.

biltonjim wrote: That air fuel ratio device looks very interesting. I look forward to hearing how you get on with that.
What are your aims with the cam regrind? Will it shift the torque peak higher up the rev range/ I'm sure you don't want to lose the low end pull that these engines have.
Good luck, and please keep us posted.

I want to widen the duration by about 10 degrees which will sacrifice a bit of low end grunt. I like running around making noise so driving below 2500 rpm isn't my game. 285 deg. -290 deg. duration is still relatively mild and a bump up tp .350" lift is still mild but with the little bit of porting cleaning and proper tune, we should see 140 HP. maybe. Needless to say, after we get it all worked out, dyno time will be in order.