THE MOMENT OF TRUE.

Kawboy wrote:

Front Fork oil change is covered in the manual on page 226.  It calls for SAE 10W20 oil . 360cc oil per fork if your just changing the oil.  391 cc of oil if you disassemble the forks and rebuild.

As far as the clutch problem- I don't know how many times I've seen people with clutch problems because they didn't know about the pushrod adjustment. I've seen bike sold because of clutch /transmission problems and then found out it was just a pushrod adjustment issue.

Regarding the clutch push rod, I didn't think it would be the cause of the failure, I still don't know until I check it, I didn't touch any of its calibration when removing and installing the crankcase so I assumed it would be calibrated in the same way as before engine repair.

What air pressure does the fork have?

Covered in the Operating Manual page 81
Front fork air pressure should be between 50-70 Kpa  (7-10 psi)

You might have difficulty finding a motorcycle shop willing or able to set the carburettors on this bike.  You've come this far - why not sort out the rough running yourself?  You could buy a vacuum balancer and a Colortune  at reasonable cost,  and follow Scotch's numerous and lucid tutorials on how to set up the carbs. That's what I'd do. 

biltonjim wrote:

You might have difficulty finding a motorcycle shop willing or able to set the carburettors on this bike.  You've come this far - why not sort out the rough running yourself?  You could buy a vacuum balancer and a Colortune  at reasonable cost,  and follow Scotch's numerous and lucid tutorials on how to set up the carbs. That's what I'd do. 

The truth is that I have always liked mechanics although I would not go beyond the apprentice level.

I am good, to a certain extent, at disassembling and assembling an engine, but I am unable to have the ear to adjust a simple carburetor on a two-stroke motorcycle.

To give an example, I adjusted the fuel mixture enrichment screws from 2.5 turns to 3.5 turns, turning a quarter of a turn each time, I DIDN'T NOTICE ANY DIFFERENCE, in the end I left them adjusted to three turns without knowing why.


I haven't had time to check the clutch yet, if I can get it repaired I know a couple of shops that will be able to adjust the carburetor butterflies and their mixture screws.

kawaBCN wrote:

biltonjim wrote:

You might have difficulty finding a motorcycle shop willing or able to set the carburettors on this bike.  You've come this far - why not sort out the rough running yourself?  You could buy a vacuum balancer and a Colortune  at reasonable cost,  and follow Scotch's numerous and lucid tutorials on how to set up the carbs. That's what I'd do. 

The truth is that I have always liked mechanics although I would not go beyond the apprentice level.

I am good, to a certain extent, at disassembling and assembling an engine, but I am unable to have the ear to adjust a simple carburetor on a two-stroke motorcycle.

To give an example, I adjusted the fuel mixture enrichment screws from 2.5 turns to 3.5 turns, turning a quarter of a turn each time, I DIDN'T NOTICE ANY DIFFERENCE, in the end I left them adjusted to three turns without knowing why.


I haven't had time to check the clutch yet, if I can get it repaired I know a couple of shops that will be able to adjust the carburetor butterflies and their mixture screws.

Only a Harley rider would even think of trying to open a beer bottle with the rear tire. It's a wonder they don't stick to canned beer. But then again, most of them open a bottle of beer with their teeth.

Last night I went down to the garage and adjusted the screw that regulates the clutch push rod.
I don't know if it's normal but the whole pack moved as if it were loose on the inside.

This afternoon I tested the bike and it seems that the problem has been solved.
I approached a motorcycle workshop that I know and the mechanic, a young man of about 35 years old, with wide eyes, made an appointment with me to take the motorcycle to adjust the carburetors.
He told me with a serious face that he also likes them. the difficult challenges.

Already back home I have noticed a Clack, Clack, Clack, in the upper right part of the cylinder head when exceeding 4000RPM when accelerating, before taking the motorcycle to the workshop I will remove the valve cover to double check the synchronization and the the valve shims.

Regarding soft suspensions like a jelly dessert, I think it will help solve part of the problem if I put the eye of the shock absorber back in its silent block, installing a washer will help me keep it in place.