THE MOMENT OF TRUE.

Today I spent some time checking the valve adjustment, with the gauge set I checked one by one and this was the result.
Intake valves:
cyl1 003
cyl2 004
cyl3 004
cyl4 006
cyl5 0-the valve is depressed.
cyl6 004

Exhaust valves:
cyl1 012
cyl2 016
cyl3 005
cyl4 021
cyl5 009
cyl6 007

The service manual recommends
between 005 - 015for intake valves.

Also between 015 - 025 for the exhaust valves.

Three shims in which I have been able to see the numbering marked 250 in size.

I have crossed those of the intake valve of cylinder 5 with the exhaust valve of cylinder 4 and they follow the same separation measurements.

Without checking with a micrometer, which I don't have, I believe that whoever tinkered with the engine before me used shims of the same size on all cylinders.

I will get a micrometer to certify my suspicions and order new shims with the corresponding numbering.

This is one job you want to get right.
The service manual tells you that when checking you want to see between.05mm -.15 mm  (.002 - .006") intake and between .15mm - .25mm (.006" - .010") exhaust.
Those are good numbers to see BUT what the Service Manual doesn't tell you is that when setting the shim clearances you want to set them to the widest clearance which is-
Intake .15mm (.006")
Exhaust to .25mm (.010")
Because as the engine is run the valve clearances will tighten up. What you don't want is to find tight valves the next time you check the valves so you must provide for the valves tendency to tighten up.

So since the shim sizes available are in .05mm increments then you want to set the
Intake valves to .15mm +  .05mm = .15mm - .2mm  (.006" - .008")
Exhaust to .25mm + .05mm =  .25mm - .3mm (.010" - .012")

Do yourself a favor and don't set the clearances tighter than intake .15mm (.006") or the exhaust tighter than .25mm (.010")


Also note that the Service Manual gives the clearances in MM (see chart) . What you are reporting is in thousands of an inch ( I believe) so don't confuse them.

 

A doubt assails me when looking at the crankshaft timing.

Is it the same to set the crankshaft at the "T" mark at 0º as at the "T" mark at 360º to adjust ignition times in the pickup?

  When I made my adjustments I simply looked for the "T" mark, without making sure of the position of the crankshaft with respect to the camshafts.

"T" , "1" , and "2" represent the top dead center positions of the connecting rod throws. 
"T" is top dead center for cylinders 1 & 6
"1" is top dead center of cylinders 2 & 5
"2" is top dead center of cylinders 3& 4

"T" is important when aligning the camshafts and also when installing the pulser coil housing with the pick up coils.

"F" represents the Fire mark ( 10 deg. before top dead center) when adjusting the ignition timing below 1000 RPM.
"F" is found on the ignition rotor for the pulser coils for  the model years 1979 and 1980.

"F" is found on the left stator on the model year 1981

Editing Note- I had to reread your posted question partly because you are translating from Spanish to English to post and sometimes things get lost in the translation.
So It doesn't matter if the "T' on the crankshaft is at cylinder #1 compression or cylinder #6 compression because the ignition is a wasted spark ignition. The pulser coil shaft rotates at crankshaft RPM and every time the "T" mark on the crankshaft comes into alignment so does the "T" mark on the pulser coil. Cylinders 1&6 fire simultaneously as does Cylinders 2&5 as does cylinder 3&4. The ignition has 3 pulser coils triggered by 1 tit on the pulser coil rotor. Each of the pulser coils fires one of the ignition coils via the igniter

 

Kawboy wrote:

This is one job you want to get right.
The service manual tells you that when checking you want to see between.05mm -.15 mm  (.002 - .006") intake and between .15mm - .25mm (.006" - .010") exhaust.
Those are good numbers to see BUT what the Service Manual doesn't tell you is that when setting the shim clearances you want to set them to the widest clearance which is-
Intake .15mm (.006")
Exhaust to .25mm (.010")
Do yourself a favor and don't set the clearances tighter than intake .15mm (.006") or the exhaust tighter than .25mm (.010")


Also note that the Service Manual gives the clearances in MM (see chart) . What you are reporting is in thousands of an inch ( I believe) so don't confuse them.








 

I have a set of gauges that I bought at a vintage vehicle market in a stall where a guy sold hundreds of new and second-hand tools, it has its numbering in inches and millimeters, it was my fault for not paying attention and taking into consideration numbering in inches instead of metric.

Up inches.
Down metric.




Taking into account your recommendation to give a little more clearance to the valve clearance and taking into account the measurements in millimeters, it is now corrected after measuring again taking the corresponding references.

Exaust:

C1 0.35
C2 0.30
C3 0.15
C4 0.45
C5 0.22
C6 0.17

Inlet:

C1 0.10
C2 0.10
C3 0.12
C4 0.15
C5 valve pressed.
C6 0.10

And knowing that all the shims have the same measurement 250.




I have to replace the following shims to adjust the valve timing to the recommended values.
Exaust +0.25
C1 ---
C2 ---
C3 shim 240
C4 shim 270
C5 shim 245
C6 shim 240

Inlet +0.15
C1 shim 245
C2 shim 245
C3 shim 245
C4 --
C5 shim 220?
C6 shim 245
I think my calculations are correct.

Now I'm going to start searching like crazy for shims on the internet trying not to hit my battered index finger.




 

I agree with all of your selections except C1 exhaust. I would put a 260 in there to get you to .25mm clearance