1982 KZ1300 rescue and rebuild

Superficial rust, grime, they just looked ugly. One and a half hours later, dish-soap, brass brush, and metal polish, and of course what is commonly known as the 'elbow grease', they look like new. A small think but made me so happy. Almost feel like I'd like to put them on a string and make a necklace! hahaha
This is what I am doing. While big stuff holds me back, I am working on having a stock of ready to use inventory of small parts. It will make a world of difference when putting the beast together.

Cylinder head nuts:

Another small meantime project. Got to the guts of the ignition switch. The details how to get there are not very interesting, the main reason is to have a display of what it look like. Clean, grease, put it together.



All back ready to fire up

Here is my sixth's floor's bike's private performance conditioning place. The humble super heated electric element which keeps me warm in winter, when in direct contact just placing a piece of metal on the cover, gets really super heated. It is way beyond the water boiling point. Moving the painted parts back and forth between this life like engine operating temperatures and cooling them down, I can already see things get sturdy.

Here, parts baking just where they belong For now that is.

StanG wrote: I already have a set of stainless bolts for all the engine covers, including this oil pan

Stan: Be sure to use some anti-seize compound on the SS bolts. The SS can react with the aluminum to create corrosion. The SS bolts are probably not as strong as the original steel bolts so they'll break easier if they get stuck. Some folks suggest not using SS in aluminum at all but I've used SS Hex head bolts on the cases of several old bikes (especially to replace those shitty Phillips head screws) and havn't had any troubles (but always give them a liberal coating of anti-seize).

Stan, I take my hat off to you, you are showing such determination whilst working in far from ideal conditions.
A couple of questions: I'm puzzled by the need to paint the INSIDE of the exhaust header pipes.
Have you decided what to do about cutting the valve seat inserts?
Regarding the stainless bolts and screws and the necessity to use anti seize compound on them, years ago I used stainless engine case screws on my XS Eleven, but did not coat them with anything but WD40. I hope the current owner of my old bike has not had any trouble with broken or seized screws because of my ignorance!

Regarding the stainless bolts, thank you Buco, I am aware of this. The kit came with instructions and they pointed out two things: use less torque and use anti-seize compound. I am attaching their full note.





I used stainless bolts on my Vmax, replaced all by feeling, and never had problems. I applied anti-seize up to 2000 C compound by Bel Rey. It's copper based, like most recommended, and at least 35 years old. Quite cool to use vintage looking cans I am sure there are plenty current equivalents. These things don't age, I am sure the bolts will be fine.

Biltonjim. Regarding the inside of the exhaust, there is no scientific research I am following. Just my idea. The inside was rusty, and despite sand blasting and cleaning, there is still some left I am sure. It's under control and safe, but there has to be a lot of superficial residue. High heat resisting paints seal and are tough on the outside, so I figured they can only be beneficial on the inside. Be it just a mist of the spray paint, it will attach itself to places I can't reach and will seal and stay there. The anti-corrosion formula is used on aircraft, from inside wings to electrical systems. It will definitely help. After this, high exhaust temperatures when in use will cure the surfaces and keep things fresh.

The valve seats. I am still sitting on this... The tools are high quality, look beautiful and are available online. It would cost probably 300 to pay the shop for grinding the seats, the tools cost about 300 as well. The shop has all the extras needed for any service, so I am simply wondering if it's worth the wait, paying extra custom fees. It's mostly logistics, I don't want to pay double. I am very tempted though. I am leaning towards ordering the tools and doing it myself. I will make the decision by the weekend.