Instrument Cluster ?

The early US bikes had the 160mph cluster also.

steelwhisperer wrote: The early US bikes had the 160mph cluster also.

Yes-the 79' bikes had the 160mph speedometer.The 80 and newer had the 85mph speedometers.(This is in the USA)

Replacing the Instrument-panel glass is tricky, however it can be done with some very careful measuring, a good glass cutter, a good cork-backed steel ruler, a "Fine" to "Medium" wet-stone (the bigger the better) and some patience. The specific ruler-type gives a non-slip/raised edge as a good cutting guide. I've used this procedure with excellent results.
A glass shop can supply you with a piece of 3mm? glass. Take the seal with you. Avoid using Acrylic, Lexan or any type of plastic. These will scratch easily and may deform in extreme heat conditions.
There is a small rubber perimeter seal that caps the edge of the glass. The glass and seal must then drop into a recess on the inside of the black housing. The white internal housing in turn, sits in the black external housing and actually squeezes the rubber seal when the two are screwed (8? small screws) back together. If the fit isn't correct you will break the glass. On my repair everything appeared to go back together correctly but the next day I had a "stress-fracture". I didn't have the glass and seal in the recess correctly ! The dimensions of the glass is critical. The recessed lip of the housing is very narrow. If the glass is too big by even a 1/32", you won't get it to fit. If it's 1/16" too small, the narrow seal will have minimum contact with the housing and might move around enough to possibly allow the glass-edge to pop out. You can get the width and length from the existing pieces or by measuring the housing. I have tried to use a template and for me; it was a complete waste of time. Buy enough glass to potentially make several in case you break one or are otherwise not satisfied with your 1st/2nd effort. You'll likely be fitting/adjusting until you're satisfied with the fit. The stone is what makes this a practical job to undertake. It will smooth and straighten the four sides, it will remove the razor-sharp edges and it will provide the means to round the four corners. When "stoning" the glass keep the stone wet with some WD-40, or LIGHT -oil or even a few drops of solvent. The stone MUST be wet and is very effective at removing material very quickly and efficiently. Take your time, wear your gloves and safety glasses, and good luck.

Further Note; Trust me on this one !!! To clean the dial faces if required DO NOT use solvents, cleaners, soaps or the like. Use a clean soft cloth and some "spit" ! Yes I said spit. DO NOT touch the needles ! DO NOT start "bending" things. 30 yr+ needles are as fragile as an Egyptian Mummy !
The "spit" thing. That's a trick from a man who repaired instruments for 32 years.

Good advise scotch!

I actually had to replace my glass this winter and can elaborate what worked best for me .

On my gauges the glass was held in with a plastic bracket that appeared to have been superglued in. I'm assuming yours is the same so be careful when taking that back part out the plastic can be brittle. The glass had a rubber lining around it as scotch mentioned to keep out moisture and I was able to move it over and glue it on (I used a tiny amount of black silicone) to my new cut glass.

When measured with a digital caliper I found that the glass is pretty much the exact same thickness of the glass you will find in any picture frame glass which can be had at the store for a few bucks if not less.

I was able to cut my new glass with an ordinary glass cutter, ruler, and pencil to start my breaks. I rounded the corners down with a small diamond dusted dremel bit and sanded off the edges with sandpaper.

When I finally got the new glass in it was just like new!!

I know you're planning on using the gauge for trade so no idea if you're actually going to fix the glass or not lol. If you do it would be best to keep the sticker for originality as well .

Some good advice , thanks..
how did you remove the trip meter knob ? mine just goes round and round but wont undo.
i am turning it clockwise..

kwak1261 wrote: Some good advice , thanks..
how did you remove the trip meter knob ? mine just goes round and round but wont undo.
i am turning it clockwise..

It must be locked on there from years of use. In the past, I have used a sudden turning action with my fingers to jar it loose. (Be careful)

And it does have left hand threads on the spindle so turning it clockwise is the way to remove it.

Good luck.

T.