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Hello 10 years 2 months ago #4643

  • Stoner
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I have a 1984 zn1300
want to change oil and coolant
looking for info
type of oil and coolant

Thanks


"I would rather ride two up with Lynn all day
than ride with the sinners or cry with the saints"

http://whitewolf-lif...s.blogspot.com/
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Last edit: by Stoner.

Hello 10 years 2 months ago #4644

  • Toddh
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I use Castrol GTX 10/40 (petroleum based) with a 10% blend of Lucas oil stabilizer. At a 2,000 mile change interval.

For coolant I use the standard 50/50 glycol and distilled water, with (Hyper Lube Super Coolant. (Which is a water wetter product). Breaks down the surface tension of the water for more efficient cooling.

Regards.

Todd.
KZ1300 A-4 4TH 1300 IN 30 YEARS
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978

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Hello 10 years 2 months ago #4645

  • KZQ
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Hi Stoner!
Welcome to KZ1300.COM.
I agree with Todd about the coolant but I'm partial to AmsOil 10W40 for the engine oil.

Bill
1947 Indian Chief, 1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 Kawasaki W3, 1976 KZ900 A4, 1979 KZ750 B4, 1979 KZ750 B4 Trike, 1980 KZ550, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1985 Kawasaki ZN1300, 1987 Yamaha Trail Way, 2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1981 GL 1100, 2009 Yamaha RoadLiner S

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Hello 10 years 2 months ago #4646

  • kwak1261
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Hi Stoner and welcome..

i hope you guys are using Motor cycle engine oil....
engine oil for cars has different additives that can make your clutch slip

Ian
Z1300 A4 ZG1300 DFI X2
Z1261J GS1000S
Vmax1200 XT500

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Last edit: by kwak1261.

Hello 10 years 2 months ago #4647

  • Toddh
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I had the feeling this was going to turn into an oil rant, so here you go.

Don't take my word for it, but hopefully a trusted publication like MCN may help with this topic.

www.motorcyclenews.com/mcn/news/newsresu...st/bike-oil-rip-off/


I realize selecting oil and what additives you use (If any) can be a very personal and touchy subject.

I have never had a wet multi-plate clutch slip on automotive oil. I never had automotive oil damage any internal lubricated parts, or had it cause premature engine wear. Even with turbo-charging a liter sized UJM, that factory clutch (With Barnett Springs) never slipped a lick in the 1/4 mile.

Nothing personal, just trying to let experience speak to the subject.

Personally I think frequent oil changes with a oil stabilizer product you trust is the cheapest and most cost effective way to keep a crankcase clean, with the least amount of wear. (With several engine tear-downs) to back it up.

I do think that 90% of the oil additives are SNAKE-OIL, so buyer beware.

Regards.

Todd.
KZ1300 A-4 4TH 1300 IN 30 YEARS
KZ1000 D-3/ Z1R
ZX900 GPZ A-3
KZ750 E-1
K1200GT
CB750F 1978

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Last edit: by Toddh.

Hello 10 years 2 months ago #4649

  • kza13
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Thanks Toddh, I for one believed the hype about motorcycle oil, wasn't sure, but everyone kept telling me about friction modifiers etc would stuff the wet clutch, I thank you for the info, now next oil change I think i'll give the GTX a go, have to see if I can find some of that Lucas stuff, should save a few dollars as I do an oil change quiet frequently, cheaper to change oil than to do a re-build, much appreciated, cheers
after tuesday even the calendar goes WTF
1979 KAWASAKI Z1300 A1 WITH A DJP SIDECAR
Frame No: KZT3OA003911
Engine No: KZT3OAE004153
Location: Queensland Australia

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