TOPIC:

Can this plug be removed without bad things happening internally?


Close up pix.


After approx 15 minutes of running.


I have a solution for the alternator. New grommet and gasket. Not yet installed.


Main oil plug. Perhaps source a new o-rings?


Bonus shot of sparking plugs.


Valve cover leak. New gasket here and will install after doing a cam timing check.


I had wiped it down before taking pix, but this rubber cap is leaking too.


Just more to look after..

Just rebadge it as a Harley and call it a day Don. (kidding)

It does occupy space right next to an oil tight 91 FLHTCU.. the irony of it all.

Any chance of crankcase pressurization being the issue?
Or an exhaust cam 1 tooth retarded?

That plug in the first picture looks to be on an oil feed gallery so if the sealant on the plug is old and hardened, then it wouldn't surprise me if it leaked. It appears to be a machining port access plug and should be a pipe thread since there's no sealing gasket or oring. The casting on the bottom side is a little light so if it was me doing the job, insert an allen key and tap the end of the allen key lightly with a hammer to "shock" the plug loose. I don't think you'll have a problem since it's well lubricated from the leak.
You can clean the threads up in the oil pan with a tap, but the caution here is not to wrench on the tap too hard. I don't like retapping aluminum pipe threads in old castings. they tend to crack and as I mentioned, the bottom of that casting is a little light. If you had some fine valve lapping compound, you could work the plug in the tapped hole and clean the threads that way. Just another caution here and make sure you clean out all the residue from the compound.
When you go to put it back in, I would use a teflon based pipe dope, not teflon tape. The teflon tape is great for new threads but useless on threads with any corrosion. The dope only goes on the male thread of the plug and sparingly. If you dope the female thread in the oil pan, the plug will force the excess dope into the gallery and at the end of the gallery is an orifice to spray oil up on to the primary or secondary drive chain. You don't want to plug that gallery.

The oil drain plug just uses a 22mm x 2.4mm oring. Buna N (nitrile ) or my favorite Viton would be my choice. Z Enterprises sells the oring separte from the plug for $2.64 U.S. They also offer a magetic plug for $21.

Hope these thoughts help
KB