TOPIC:

Hey has anyone seen, used, know some one who has used this 6 in 1 box coil set up.
311098576542 Ebay .com
Dion

1st: I paid $14.00 Cdn at a local auto-wrecker, many (?) years back. 2nd: NO regrets.
Like most who have done the "GM Coil Conversion" mine was similarly located in the "Tool-Tray" but I found it a nuisance when changing the air-filter and other routine "stuff".
Looking for an alternative location I discovered it fit above my cam cover, mounted to the underside of the plate originally used to hold the OEM coils. Before anyone considers this there is one required modification which I had unwittingly and coincidentally done way back in '83 when the bike was stripped and gutted for plating and paint. At that time I "Decked" the cam-cover solely for cosmetic reasons. By this I am referring to removing the reed-boxes integrally cast on top of the cam cover. (I filled the air-ports in the cover with high temp. epoxy which is still intact to this day and has never needed any further attention.) With the cam-cover slimmed-down the coil-pac fits perfectly! And it coincidentally (decades later) allowed me the room to make a custom air intake/air-filter modification which also gave back the space to return the tool-kit (less the tray) to the original location above the battery.
The advantages are: 1) A cheap, easy and viable coil replacement option, 2) A much healthier spark, 3) A more suitable/cosmetically appealing location, 4) MUCH shorter length spark-plug leads ( as they were with OEM coils) as well as Ballast-Resistor supplied power and ground leads., just to mention the most obvious. From a maintenance point of view I find it's easier to remove the GM coil-pac as opposed to the OEM coils when servicing requires the removal of the cam cover. Pop the plug-boots, remove four fasteners and the coil-pac can be removed out of the way with no further disconnects required assuming you wire-up with several extra inches of power/ground leads.
What I found humorous about "this Guys" Ebay ad for these coils is it appeared after I had posted my GM conversion on this forum. He made the mistake of using my photos for his Ebay ad. It was his disclaimer: < I have not installed any but have sold over 50 right here on eBay> that galled me. At least he read our threads and included the required comment about the "Ballast-Resistor" !
There are many coil conversion topics and threads and I'm certainly not discounting their viability and effectiveness. For myself, The GM coil-pac conversion was worth the try and immediately proved itself to meet the engines requirements in an affordable and simple way which was worth the effort and no more involved then any conversion. It works for me beautifully and I would recommend those needing replacement coils, consider this option. I will add: "Engine Heat" degradation of the the GM coil-pac as I have seen commented on (only a few times) is in my opinion a moot point. Have you seen where they're mounted in/on a vehicle? - usually on top of the intake manifold and hidden under a "cosmetic" plastic cover !
_

Thanks Scotch
I know with the Accel and Nology you dump the ballast resistor, interesting your still running one.
might have a look around see if any other car makers have a smaller 6 lead unit
interestingly, i was about to source a another tappet cover so that i may cut off all that convoluted read assembly myself, once i have my Tig running i was going to fit a nice alloy plate flush mount and tig it up whilst screwed to the engine , prevent distortion
then ill polish it all up, but same reason as you, its not necessary and anything to make working on the engine easier has to worth the effort

read a bit more scotch
ballast to control the higher output
cheers Dion

Dion web bike in japan sell a block off kit for the rocker cover .

A machine shop could mill off the "Reed-box" perfectly. Fill the air injection ports per your choice. Tig or Mig filling would allow you to potentially polish the Cam cover.