Hi I have had this problem already longer, but until now I never got to do it. So when riding the bike over the edge, like street to bridge crossing where there is a height difference I suppose, and light corner I get this terrible swaying of the bike, or better to say, wobble and wave beyond the imagination. Leaning forward on the tank cures the effect but I can't possibly lean forward forever, he he. The higher the speed, so is the effect stronger. The rear shock absorbers silent blocks are well.. not the best but I can't imagine it could have such great impact on stability, the rear wheel bearing seem to be ok and the front steering stem was taken care of also the front wheel bearing. Oil level in the front fork unknown. So my second thought was the swing arm bearing. As I already read the pivot shafts are quiet hard to remove so I got carried away and build this tool to remove them and it worked pretty well so I post here. I thing the pictures are self explanatory, everything its made out of material which was lying around. The difficult part is the one involving cutting the inner thread M10 in adapter. The rest is straight forward. Also maybe someone can share a light on from where else the wave can come from.
Hi Bucko, yeah they are tapered roller bearings, i thought maybe there is a play on theme because one of the previous owners of the bike (was 4 of theme) have worked on everything in it so for example after i got the bike and got it running when light front breaking, there was this taping noise coming from the steering stem because the bearing was that loose, and you should have seen the tank inside.. i was surprise that any petrol have fit in at all because of the resin coating one centimeter thick in some places. So i thought, like Stocktoy mention the adjuster its loose. One part of the pin is sitting in the frame and the other in the bearing and its pressing it together. Swing arm did not wobble but you don't have enough strength to move it the way its loaded when riding i suppose. I still don't know about the wheel bearing, maybe i change that too. Tire pressure to Kaw spec. Its snowing now where i am so can't ride for now....
The pivots on my bike were really stuck. What I did was spray them with penetrating oil (Kroil), heat them well with a hair dryer, and tap with a hammer. After a couple days soaking, I tapped the pivot deeper inside the frame - this loosened it a bit up. Then, using a bunch of large diameter washers and a 5 mm hex screw, applied pressure and left it this way. It slowly moved forward. More Kroil on both sides, then hammered it back again, and again washers against the frame and tightening the screw. At this point it became movable so I put a couple of spacers between the washers and the frame and applied more pressure with the screw. The pivots came out and the final pull was with a hooked bar under the washers - it just popped out.
I think ideal tool for this would be to have a U shaped piece of metal with a hole in the middle and just keep applying tension with a screw. The pivot will eventually come out. Making it a 10 mm size will of course allow for more fulling force, but I think it's worth a try to do it first with the 5 mm.
By the way, removing the bearing race can be done with a socket. My 23 mm fit perfectly on the wider end, then did the other side with a long piece of a steel bar. Not proper tool for the job, but for a one time job the socket worked fine.
Yes, the pivots are to preload the bearings. If I remember it correctly, there should be a gap of 1-2 mm between the swing arm and the frame after adjustment. I also applied a bit of anti-seize on the pivots before installing them. I must say that after replacing the bearings and proper adjustment, the wheel of course had the bearing replaced (so the front and triple tree), the bike is very solid - absolutely no swaying or wobble.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1300 A4
1981 Kawasaki KZ1300 A3
assembling engine, chassis & electrical from 79 - 89 parts