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Kawboy makes a good point about the passages. You will have to ensure they are all clear. Air and fuel ! No way of telling how the soaking affected the brass metering jets in the choke system: Bowl, pick-up tube and enriching vacuum port. Even if they are not blocked the internal crud that you are going to need to remove will potentially plug them up. So again; Make 110% certain that there is no debris remaining before assembling. As far as the outside of the bodies is concerned; Soda Blasting would be a good choice but if that's a problem from an availability point of view consider a FINE Glass bead finish. I've done several Carb-sets with Fine Glass Bead and the finish is quite acceptable in my view. Might be easier to find this service.

Hi thanks to all who answered
regards the Dewalt Drill, this was in reference to some one else who sued a drill press for machining.
i have done similar over the years, particularly in this instance i was writing about having used the battery drill to machine the ends of the float bowl drain screws, and the heads of tow screws bought for the oil drain at bottom of front fork legs.
the honing was done on the rear BRAKE master cylinder, i used wet/dry paper wrapped around a spray gun cleaning brush
my stuff up with the cleaning, well who can say about airways you cant see through!, the carb body was only in for a few seconds before i noticed the water reaction to the cleaning agent, so hardly any issues their, the cv cap and bowl took the worst as it took me longer to fish out
their was no crystallized particles on any of the objects, just discoulerd .
i cleaned with petrol/thinners. but the jets as said who can say, i did replace all brass fittings from a kit when rebuilding. so will just have to soak some more and blow some more see what happens.
scotch, found your observations really interesting regards to main jet and needle setting, have years and years seemingly now ! ago done quite a few carbs main and needle jet changes on various street/race bikes when fitting after market exhausts, and or particularly removing air boxes as was quite common in NZ in the eighty's.
and on the last carbed bike i had 2005 CRF 250 had to change mains and needle from winter to summer avg 8 degrees to avg 35 degrees calsius
anyways just shows yet again how particular these bikes are, and how good it is having guys like you on the site who have already lived this experience
will pull down as stated again and re clean recheck what can be seen, certainly these carbs are a lot more of a pain than any carb i have ever come across to set up.
yeah soon as i put the carbs on i said to rob i did a numpty and put the bowls on the wrong body's(making it difficult to drain)
anyways you get that sometimes, ! distractions
i will latter after bike has passed NZ requirements to licensee, decide if i keep the carbs or get shot in favour of setting up a injection system!, if i keep then will pull apart vapor or something blast fit the brass floats etc etc
crowed here i have found have a huge amount of experience in retro fitting injection to all things petrol powered, are happy to work in with me doing alot of the mechanical side so could be the go.
cheers Dion

Keep on going, Dion ! It's all in the details.

I wish my ZN had carbs just so I could do this.

(But seriously, excellent info).

Good enough reason to buy another one!

Anyone one know why this spring is located here and what its function is ?