TOPIC:

Thank you biltonjim. I guess I sometimes go through dilemmas in my mind, and not shy to be personal about them. People are scared shitless of stepping from behind their 'wall'. It's a weird 'western society', local at least here, that seems to panic when asked to be spontaneous and truly emotionally independent. So much judgment and I am the furthest man from liking any drama!
Well, I saw that woman a long time ago, singing the same song, and she is just a feminine perfection to me. The other band, the Flipper, they have very thoughtful and deep songs, if you'd even just read their lyrics. I am sure this is a diversion from a bike theme, haha, but I took this liberty of having this very long and popular thread and post something I just had on my mind, in the midnight crazy twilight hour, kind of talking to myself.

I will Jim, for sure, post more. Never trouble I need to organize things first. In short, got 700 miles on it and revving up to 6000 rpm's. Not happy with opening the throttle at higher speeds and lower/mid gear. Seems like lacking mid range power - rpm's go up but it doesn't pick up. Clutch slips? Doesn't seem to do it from take off in first gear.
Time for second oil change as well.

That singing woman... Inspiration. Not all things in the world are ugly after all, hahaha

Give me some time with another bike vid. Cheers Biltonjm!

LareNurminen wrote: The plug for the valve is handy for all kinds of auxiliary items. I connected a cigarette lighter to it, feeds my navigator. Turns off when key turned to stop and is factory fused plug.

This is brilliant!

Took this video of the bike today. A bit windy and noisy, another day I will find a quiet place and record more sound. Best see it with HD settings.

Bike runs good, except I am looking for sharper response from throttle under load. Riding let's say in 2nd or 3rd gear at 4000 rpm, when I sharply open throttle the rpm's jump to 5000 but the bike doesn't react, 'catching up' with a little delay. It feels feels like the clutch spins when it should grab. I need to play with the adjustment, or check if the friction plates work well. I am exercising a possibility that I might want to replace the steel plates - they were rusty and pitted, after cleaning and I turned them around. PErhaps it didn't work as well as I hoped for? The friction plates were EBC. I think they should be fine.

In general, all works good and I can accelerate well, but need to watch not to twist the throttle too fast from lower rpm's, which I'm sure should be easily corrected. I have a lingering thought that maybe there is still just tiny bit of 'something' in the carburetors? Sometimes at constant speed it seems to 'fluctuate', like if the fuel supply was not giving a constant volume. I put 1/3 of Seafoam can in the tank yesterday, and will repeat this treatment a few times. It will continue to work on any possible deeply hidden residues, and lubricate the carbs from the inside as well. The stiff petcock already works smoother. The bike is not broken in yet anyway. I think in reality it needs 10k miles to be fully broken in and ridden 'as if stolen' with confidence.

I can put stripes on the tank etc., not necessarily same as stock, anytime. But I like the way it is. I'm not a purist in this respect. What do you guys think?

Sometimes at constant speed it seems to 'fluctuate', like if the fuel supply was not giving a constant volume.
This was a symptom I experienced when I tried to lean the top-end by dropping the main-needles 1 slot. Had to put the clip back in the #3 slot and all was fine. Your needles only have the single slot, so you have two options. Shim the needles or buy the rebuild kits that come with 5-slot needles and lift them one slot.
when I sharply open throttle the rpm's jump to 5000 but the bike doesn't react, 'catching up' with a little delay.
This might be nothing more then backing off on the clutch adjustment. You cleaned the steel-plates thoroughly so I hesitate to suggest it's a problem with these.
(Be prepared.....as you might get suggestions that your oil is of the wrong type.) Frankly speaking - I've used almost every type and brand of oil over the 38 years with no issues related to clutch slippage. (for what it's worth)

On the Clutch Stan I was wondering; if you had new fraction disks but original steel discs, if there's any tiny amount of grooving / unevenness on the steels, the new friction material may have to 'bed' into that profile shape in order to get a fully conformal contact area?
(like new brake pads on old discs)

Richard.

That's in the back of my head. Those were old steel discs, that seemed good, but I've read even minimal warp would cause gripping weakness. I removed the rust and bead blasted them. They looked good. But the pitting left after rust removal might have created a groove pattern, be it just a few, maybe that prevented a total perfect flash fit and some oil film between them, that 'bed'. I flipped them over to have those affected surfaces towards the friction plates, and the 'better' steel surfaces towards each other. Hell, the bike rides well, but I can't see myself being able to make a wheelie or burn tires! So, definitely, I need to improve the clutch grab.

I'm 200 miles behind my own scheduled oil change at 500, I'll see what happens after a change and some clutch adjustment revisited.

Cheers Richard!