TOPIC:

I read the FAQ's, but I was hoping to find direction on the easiest way to access the tensioner. All of the detailed info will help once I figure out how to get there

Pull the right side crankshaft/stator cover. Rotate it clockwise until the "T" is lined up with the split in the engine cases. Go to the cam tensioner on the back of the engine- it's the lower, offset one. Back off both bolts holding it in evenly and remove. Don't rotate the engine with the tensioner out.

Look you have to be really unlucky for the tensioner to fail, it does happen to some bikes, up to you if you want to change it right now or wait a while, just my opinion, not worth much, I changed mine just to be on the safe side, but you want to try and get the old girl going, so give it a go

this bike has 16,000 miles on it and has not run in many years. Does this cam tensioner typically fail from wear or sieze from sitting? I am accustomed to working on v twins and two strokes. This bike has a lot more moving parts than I am used to. I'm a simple guy used to simple bikes looking to simply get this bike running.

I have an 81 and I was one of the unlucky ones. It wasn't really my tensioner, it was my plastic gear that wore out. Caused my cam chain to slip and bye bye valves. If yours really only has 16,000 on it I doubt the gear is worn that bad... but with a bike this old are you certain it doesn't have 116,000 on it?

I don't think it would seize from sitting but I'm not the expert here.

If all you are getting is hazard lights after making sure the key switches are in the right position, you could have a blown or broken main fuse. Might even be corrosion in the fuse holder. It is the 10 amp fuse in the holder under the seat, closest to the right side of the bike. It can look good but still be broken away under the metal end where you can't see it.