TOPIC:

Hi All,

I joined up to this forum back in November 2014 to help me along with a 1980 B2 model that I'm resurrecting back from the dead and converting it to an A model at the same time. I love this forum since it brings to light all the issues that need to be fixed to make it right and all of the wonderful ideas from the members on what they've done to achieve their final goals. LOVE IT !!!

One of the issues I've been studying here is the overheating issue. One of the big questions I have with most of the posts regarding overheating has to do with the type of exhaust header pipes people are using. The original exhaust was double walled header pipes which provides an insulating factor between the outside wall and the inner wall. that helped keep the chrome on the outer wall a nice silver color and reduced the heat exposure to the engine and radiator keeping the heat inside of the pipe until it exited out the tailpipe.

Now after 30 to 35 years most of the exhausts have been replaced with aftermarket systems which for cost purposes have been made with a single wall header. Nothing wrong with that other than now we have headers running at upwards of 1200 degrees Fahrenheit near the exhaust flange which up near the rad and coils and then cools down to probably 400-500 F underneath the engine, exposing the oil pan to a lot of unnecessary heat. If only we could keep the heat inside the pipe until it exits the tailpipe.

With my 1980 project, I have a limited budget so as much as I would have liked to put on a new factory exhaust, it won't be happening. Next best for me will be the DG Exhaust (which I've bought) but thanks to all of you who have raised the overheating issue got me thinking about ceramic coating the DG exhaust.

Jet coat was the first thing that came to mind. So a little research lead me to understand that the coating was applied to the outside of the pipe and that's not bad other than on a new pipe which is already chromed it would be a waste since they would strip the chrome to apply the Jet coat. If it was a bare steel pipe and you Jet coated it, it would come out looking like a brand new chromed pipe. So when my pipe get rusted up, then I'll consider Jet coating.

With a little more research I came across this product made by Eastwood. www.eastwood.com/ew-hi-temp-internal-exh...-w-extension-tu.html Comes in an aerosol can, costs $19.99 and one can should coat one entire system. It has a poly tube about 2 feet long with a 360 degree spray nozzle and the instructions say to apply 2 coats , let dry , and install the pipe back on the bike and cure the coating with the hot exhaust gas from the engine. What I like about this product is that it doesn't affect the outside of the pipe and keeps the heat inside of the pipe, so I'll be coating my entire exhaust internally with this stuff. I won't be in a position to test this for a while since I'm just starting to convert my beast from a B2 to an A@ model, but when I get around to it I'll update this post with results. I just thought it might be worth while sharing what I've found so far and leave it up to the members to look in to this product if they're having overheating issues. For twenty bucks, it's worth a try. In theory it should work quite well.

Cheers,
Kawboy

John, if you have NAPA stores up there they sell some exhaust insulating wrap tape to do just what you want. made by "Cool-It Thermo-Tec Racing Products". The NAPA (Balkamp) part number is 735-3952. It comes in a 15ft roll and 2" wide. IIRC I paid about $20 for the roll. Not sure if one roll would be enough to wrap all of your head-pipes far enough down. If one roll isn't enough, you might check online with several of the racing suppliers (Jeg's, Speedway Motors, etc.) for complete header wrap kits, or at least longer rolls.

I used this stuff on my first '83 Voyager because they, too, have a heating problem. It completely cured that problem, even on 100 degree days! Even the double-walled pipes from the factory seem to radiate too much heat for the cooling system to tolerate at slow speeds. I wrapped my pipes just like you would wrap the handlebars on a bike. Just overlap one layer as you go. Use a hose clamp at the beginning end, then one about every 4" to be sure it is held snuggly in place and then one at the tail end. That will make it permanent. I only wrapped mine until the pipes showed under the radiator. No need to go further as the heat can escape easily past that point.

Thanks Bruce, going to give this Eastwood product a try and see what it does for me. If I'm not happy, I appreciate the info on the header pipe wrap. And yes we do have a NAPA store up here. They are our second best aftermarket supplier in the area.

www.centuryperformance.com/ Exhaust Header Heat Wraps - Do Not Use
Century Performance Center - Tech ZoneWhy Header Wraps Destroy Your Headers

and

www.vanceandhines.com/ maybe of interest for this topic.

From Vance & Hines: Note: This is a very concise and abreviated version of the Century Performance center notice.

(begin copy n paste):

IMPORTANT NOTICE
Use of this Vance & Hines Header Wrap Kit (Part No. 26523) may void all
warranties of the exhaust system that this Kit is applied to. Header Wrap
functions to insulate heat generated by exhaust gases fl owing through
the head pipe, thereby raising the head pipe temperature beyond its
intended operating temperature.
Using heat wrap may compromise
the integrity of the head pipe material, and may ultimately
lead to cracks in the head pipe and will not be covered under
warranty.
Use of header wrap on an exhaust system is a modifi cation
to and not a normal use of an exhaust system. This notice is intended to
inform the buyer to consider this possibility before using this product.
WARNING
AVOID SKIN CONTACT WITH FIBERGLASS
MAY CAUSE TEMPORARY IRRITATION - PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR & GLOVES
RECOMMENDED - AVOID INHALATION (OF LOOSE FIBERS)

End of copy n paste.

I had considered header wrap but I knew that the pipes under the wrap would get cherry hot. That's why when I saw this ceramic coating material that got sprayed inside the pipe I thought it would also be protecting the pipe itself. I'm still planning on testing this out on the DG pipe and taking pyrometer readings once installed, if for nothing else but a base line and then more readings down the road to see if the material burnt off or blew off etc.

Hi Kawboy!

Have you considered making heat shields for the more vulnerable areas on the bike? They could be placed out of sight and used on multiple areas to keep the heat in check.

I've made some for mine and placed them under the tank to better insulate the fuel. Still have original pipes so havent needed it anywhere else yet. When I do get new exhaust eventually I plan on lining the oil pan and lower part of radiator as well but that should be enough.

Honestly with an upgraded fan, zn fan switch and a properly filled cooling system there shouldn't be too much trouble with keeping it cool.

Let me know how it goes .