TOPIC:

This link to zed- parts might be the most logical explanation on the tensioner wheel problem.

www.zed-parts.com/CAM%20GUIDE%20WHEEL_INFO.html




The reason this wheel wears out is that if the cam chain runs slightly slack, it then runs over the wheel rather than rolling with it.
This then can produce a flat spot, stopping the wheel from turning so all the cam chain does then is wear the rubber down to the metal.

This releases a lot of slack into the chain and the cam chain runs even looser.
The tensioner then cannot cope with the extra length of chain and can cause it to jump over the cam sprockets.

Another reason for the chain to jump over the cam sprockets is the old style tensioner would wear and allow the pin to be pushed back against the spring presure again resulting in the cam chain jumping.


We strongly recomend you replace the old cam chain tensioner with the following upgrade
Tensioner Part#12048-1113 (Black from a ZX11)
Tensioner Part#12048-1139 (Silver KLX650)
Gasket Part# 11009-1858

OK,

I dont think anyone should be alarmed about what happened to my tensioner rubber wheel on my current bike, as it may not be avoidable anyway, even by replacing it.
I have seen this problem occur with older bikes still using the original (dangerous) cam chain tensioner.

Facts.
The original cam chain tensioner on the 1300 is just an accident waiting to happen. Many have failed & caused engine destruction. THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED ASAP !

The ZZR1100 or similar tensioner used as a replacement cannot fail as it has teeth to stop it moving back & allowing the chain to become loose (which the original does not have).
By using this new tensioner, you eliminate this problem but the spring is just a bit too strong, so needs to be cut 10mm to reduce the pressure on the tensioner arm & rubber wheel. Many owners have done this & covered many miles with no problems.

The next problem is the rubber wheel itself.
I have removed these rubber wheels from 1300's with 50k miles on them & they have not been half way worn, so I do not believe there in necessarily a real problem with the quality of the rubber at all.
I do believe the problem is mainly due to engine temperature.
If the engine is low on oil or coolant (or both) it will run much hotter. If the engine is hotter, then all the nylon & rubber gears & wheels will become softer & more prone to wear & failiure........simple. This will also be made worse in hotter countries where the engine runs hotter by default (not the UK!)
Topping the oil up after that point will help, but not undo the damage already done if it has been too hot for too long & lets admit it, most 1300's have a bit of an oil addiction & we have all had to top them up at times.......sometimes letting the level get a bit too low. Also for those of us who bought 2nd hand bikes, we dont know how the previous owner cared for oil levels do we ????

The next question is the bearing inside the rubber wheel which is a very basic roller type bearing.
I do believe there may have been a problem with certain batches of these on some bikes.
I have seen some bearings that were not as "free" rolling as others & may have nipped up when in use & hot, but appear to be ok when cold. Only checking your own wheel visibly can confirm this, nothing else.
Once a flat spot is made on the wheel, its doomed, no matter which tensioner is fitted. I believe the reason for mine failing was the bearing nipping up......nothing else. The bike has covered 30k miles & the rubber wheel damage looks fresh, certainly not anymore than a few 1000 miles.

If the rubber wheel has failed, you will find little bits of black rubber in the oil when you drop it.......I did & it was obvious, so please always take care to examine your oil before disposing of it. I run mine through a few layers of paper towels to see what is left & its sometimes an interesting thing to see what has been floating around in your oil !
On this subject, its WELL WORTH fitting a magnetic sump plug as well, as this collects any small metal bits in your oil.
TIP.
The sump plug from a Subaru Impretza Car is identical to the 1300 thread & length. Its cheap to buy these on EBAY if you look !! Check out EBAY 200973041650 or similar.

In summary, lets not panic too much about this & keep an eye on our oil & water levels !

Pete F

Today is a good day !

I got my top end (cylinder block / jugs) back onto the engine with the new rings fitted.
Many thanks to Dave D (owner of 2 x Z1300's ) and my son Dan for giving up the time & patience to do the work today. It only took 45 minutes to get the whole block back onto the 6 pistons & rings & was quite a straight forward job.
Thanks to all who offered advice on this part of the build as its been 16 years since I did it on a 1300.







This now lets me get onto fitting the head & completing the work.

ROLL ON SPRING / SUMMER 2104 !!

Happy New Year to ALL !!

NEW YEARS EVE 31st DEC 2013.

Another great days work in the garage today after Dave & Dans help to get the cylinder block back on yesterday.
Today was fitting cylinder head with water pump & camchain tensioners, carb inlets & torque head down.
All ready for cams & ignition pick-ups next.
Dont think I will be doing any work tomorrow as wont be in any fit state to do much of anything !!

Man, that is a beautiful job you are doing - very nice. I am doing a top end overhaul on my 1300 right now, so these pics are very useful.

Looking good mate
What's the mesh for between the frame tubes at the rear ...to keep crud off the back of the engine?