TOPIC:

Got a weird sound after rebuilt top end I've change my timing tensioner and the nylon timing gear the rubber wheel look just right. I 've do the head job to brand new valve and they have been lap, clearance check, these are good. what you think about this.

First- I wouldn't run the engine until I figured out what the noise is.

You need to pull the valve cover and have a good look around

I'd want to ensure there was oil flowing to the top end. The sound to me is dry (not lubricated)
The sound reminds me of a stuck shim bucket?? Or maybe you spit a shim.
And last thing- Not knowing at what position you had the camshafts in before tightening down, if you had to rotate one or both camshafts a fair bit to time, you may have bent a valve since the valves in this head can interfere with each other. It's happened before to a couple of the novice builders.
 

Sounds like a loose object flying around.

Hello kawboy it to sound to me like a "dry" sound. I'll eliminate the spit Shim. When I initially stated the bike it run 5 min before I decided to put it off and open valve cover. I have to chage 2 Shim, #6 inlet and #3 outlet so I put new Shim in start it again to see if the sound was gone but apparently no. I analyzed where the sound came of, by ear and with engine stethoscope and it look to came near the timing advancer.

How can I check the oil flow. Do I take off the valve cover and use the starter to crank it without gaz in carb, would be anough ??

for a band valve I don't think I really take my time during assembling cam shaft. It maybe so but really don't think. Is there another way to test this without using the cylinder leakdown test.
 

Oil Flow check- when you pulled off the valve cover, did everything look wet with oil? Was there pools of oil laying in the cylinder head around the depressions in the cylinder head casting? If .everything looks wet, you are probably ok. You could run the engine without the valve cover in place but oil will be flying around and things would get messy. Turing it over on the starter without ignition and you may see the oil weeping out from around the camshaft bearing pedestals/ bearing caps.
It's interesting that you had to readjust shims in #3 exhaust and #6 intake since the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 where #3 and #6 are beside each other in the order. Did you follow the camshaft installation procedure exactly as written in the manual? if not , you may have bent a couple of valves.
#1 and #6 pistons must be at top dead center
The exhaust camshaft is installed first and the exhaust cam timing set.
Then the intake camshaft is installed and tightened down and this is where things get critical because when you tightened down the exhaust camshaft nothing would have interfered with any of the valves or the pistons provided that the pistons were in the right place BUT when you go to install the intake camshaft, if the pistons and the exhaust camshaft are not in the right place, as the intake camshaft gets tightened down, valves could touch each other and bend a valve, and I wonder if this happened because you had to reshim #3 exhaust and #6 intake.
What size shims did you take out and what size shims did you have to install in #3 and #6 ??

Bent valves on a cylinder head install has happened here 2 or 3 times in the last 5 years and I suspect it happened because of the lack of understanding of how close the valve heads pass each other as they open and close Hemispherical heads are known for bending valves when a camshaft falls out of timing when it jumps one tooth on the cam chain and one tooth of timing on a camshaft represents 20 degrees of crankshaft rotation. So think of that. If anything was out of time by 20 degrees when installing the camshafts, you take the chance of bending a valve. In the Service Manual, Kawasaki tells you to rotate the crankshaft 2 full turns by wrench after getting the head and camshafts installed and if you feel any interference at all, you have to rotate in reverse and recheck the timing. I wish Kawasaki did a better job of emphasizing this point prior to providing the procedure for cylinder head installation.
If you have a cylinder leak down tester, i would check #3 and #6 cylinder
good luck and let us know what you find

Any updates Idermon?? How are you making out??