TOPIC:

Thought I would advise that the windings on 81'kz1300 in tank fuel sender resister windings are indeed stainless steel and to repair ( I guess there will be some inaccuracies} I took the insulated winding board out of its frame and unwound enough to make to a successful rejoin of the broken winding wire. This method has been flagged before. ( in case of copy right )

Is there any information as to what the rear brake master cylinder diameter should be if re-sleeving with stainless steel. Mine (original) has some rough spots which I have mostly ground out with wet and dry sand paper and grinding paste. It appears to be smooth although there is a ridge towards the stop where the buckets of the Piston-comp-brake stops. I'm thinking the lining is worn and buckets are not sealing or the buckets are worn ( not obvious to the eye ) or both?

Hence my query as to the bore size and the next question is are buckets available for other bikes that would fit the KZ 1300.

various parts are available from CMS but pricey with freight to Australia.

Thanks in advance

CWB wrote: Thought I would advise that the windings on 81'kz1300 in tank fuel sender resister windings are indeed stainless steel and to repair ( I guess there will be some inaccuracies} I took the insulated winding board out of its frame and unwound enough to make to a successful rejoin of the broken winding wire. This method has been flagged before. ( in case of copy right )

Curious as to how you did the "rejoin". If you went as far as unwinding and determining that the wire was indeed stainless, why wouldn't you mic the wire and replace the entire wire. Availability issues??

Thanks Kawboy. I was under the impression the sensor was not that accurate . I only had to undo one winding for the join and the rest of the wire was in good order. I should point out that the break was between the insulator board and the current input wire terminal.
Getting my hands on a micrometer is problematic but I did source potential wire sources in case i had to go that way.

The size of sleeve in front and rear master cylinder are 5/8". I'm not sure why otherwise all metric bike made in Japan had the size in inches stamped on it, but that's what it is. You must see it on your master cylinder.

I got my front master cylinder re-sleeved with a stainless sleeve. It will last forever. I am in Canada, and I was quoted ridiculous prices for this job, ranging between $270 - 400. Stupid. I found a great professional place in California, USA, called >>> Karps Power Brake Service <<<. Yes, it's far away from Australia, but perhaps still worth it. I paid around US $100 for the service. It was his first KZ1300 master cylinder and he made a custom brace to hold it in him machine, so it took him a bit longer, and now he is ready for the front. I am sure he would do the rear just as easy and professional. I think overall with shipping this might be the best and cheapest option even from Australia. But I do remember someone offering this service for about the same price in Australia, so I think you might have good luck locally. I'd suggest posting about it on Facebook groups. Many riders there from down under. If I find any old info about there I will post it here.

The piston seals can be replaced with seals from the front master cylinder kit. If you inspect yours visually up close, if there are no tears, you might most likely be able to use what you have with success.

0n the last note, you might be alright with the master cylinder as is. I used aluminum and metal polishing compound for wet polishing of the sleeve with 1500 then 2000 grid paper. Then continued with adding some oil. It turned out great and the master cylinder is as solid as new even with old original seals. The rear brake is used perhaps only 10% of the time in comparison to the 90% front. I have a feeling you will be just fine. That ridge at the top is where the stopper sits, and that's where it rusts. Like you said, the actual seal on the piston doesn't go that far. I wouldn't worry about it. Just clean as much as you can and that's all.

I think you'll find the Fuel sender wire is what's referred to as "Ni-Chrome." I had the same issue - broken between the winding's' end and the board terminal, probably from vibration. I also found it to be a simple repair. Agree that the sender/receiver is not the most accurate - at least mine wasn't. Spent 1/2 a day with the cluster apart so I could re-calibrate the receiver which has 3 adjustments. Pain in the ass to do because the tank had to be systematically filled and drained numerous get the various levels to read correctly but It's relatively accurate now. All I need to remember is: When the fuel gauge needle drops to the high-side of the "empty" mark - I need to switch to reserve - right now. Then I know I'e got 25 kilometers at best, of remaining fuel. And this is very consistent !

I adopted a sender from another unknown bike. The resistance was quite right on according to the service manual. I calibrated it a bit and it seems to be accurate. Except it acts up sometimes - it doesn't always go right up to indicate full when the tank is full, only after a while when the bike is upright. It climbs up quite slow. I haven't really checked exactly the amounts of fuel in the tank at different needle positions of the gauge, but it gives me a good indication of what's happening. So, I still have work to do and in the future check exactly the numbers. As to reserve, I usually don't go this low, but it did happen a few times. Usually the bike just starts running funny and loosing power. I think it's emptying the carb bowls and the fuel supply becomes inconsistent. It never just cuts off the engine suddenly as some would expect. It's gradual, but of course not very long lasting before the engine chokes. I just flip the tap to reserve and all goes back to normal. I have definitely another 20 km left - this I will need to research and refine. I haven't done so yet because I don't carry extra gas with me. And the mileage changes greatly depending on the weather. The numbers of cold starts, then traffic, etc. 0nce I had to fill up after lots of city riding in cold weather, many separate times so many long warm ups, and it gave me 15 liters per a 100 km for that period. More than an average car!