TOPIC:

Stan's recent comments regarding his clutch re-adjustment points to a situation that warrants a comment regarding how the Manual describes this procedure.
It's somewhat subjective. Once the lock-nut is loosened, the screw is turned OUT until loose. The manual then indicates turning the screw IN until it gets hard to turn - then back out 1/4 turn. What might be "hard to turn" for one person may be quite different for another.
I prefer to adjust somewhat differently. Once backed OUT, I turn the screw IN until I feel it make contact with the internals. With a light touch, the screw stops. Then secure the lock-nut. Then adjust the cable, itself. Always done it this way with no issues of slippage and still have ample actuation for easy and smooth gear changes.
The original clutch friction-plates (80,000K) were replaced earlier this year and when measured I calculated I had another 20-25,000 K left so I'm satisfied with my adjustment method.

Yeah, I had a hard time following the manual because of the 'mushiness', and no previous experience with adjusting clutch on these bikes. A bit more explanation below.

Old sand blasted steel plates and new EBC friction plates, soaked overnight in oil. I had the bike on center stand and observed what happens when pulling the clutch lever while engaged in first gear. I found following the manual difficult, but did my best. Result - the wheel was spinning way beyond the oil drag effect. It felt engaged. I kept turning the screw in until I could comfortably stop the wheel with my hand. When on the road, it felt at times that with clutch lever pulled and engaged in gear, the bike wanted to go. I readjusted the cable, but this kept happening. Eventually, it stopped.
Fast forward, when doing the adjustment again recently, the clutch seemed more 'firm', for no better word. I think the friction plates got broken in. I turned the adjusting screw out, then in a couple times, and this time I could feel when the clutch actuating easier. That 'mushy' feeling wasn't as vague as before. At the end, I had the adjusting screw too far in, and that I gather was causing slippage when blipping the throttle quick under load to accelerate. Result - the rpm's went up by a 1000 but the bike didn't move.
So, this time I did it in a similar way to scotch. I held the screw driver very lightly, but turned it in until I could feel just a little bit of firmness. Which is very close to the 'first contact' feeling. There is absolutely no dragging feeling and not a slightest feeling of slippage.

Now that I have more feel for how the clutch adjustment behaves, I will play with it more later and see how far I can turn that adjusting screw out. My feeling is it can go out a bit more.