TOPIC:

It wouldn't hurt to confirm but you did verify that top dead center on cylinders 1-6 lined up with the "T" mark on the timing rotor ( see page 9 post # 21970)
That's why I love the idea of tracking your work on this topic. You actually wrote it down !!

I haven't reviewed all of your posts yet and I may do this tomorrow. One thought that crossed my mind- There are 5 fuses grouped together and 2 fuses in a different location according to the wiring diagram. The 20A fuse in the 2 pack fuse location is the feed for the DFI. Have you confirmed that you have a clean full voltage supply coming from that fuse to the DFI unit? And please note that just checking for voltage with a volt meter is not enough. You can have a reading of full voltage through a connection when not under a current draw and then when the current flows, if there's a high resistance somewhere, the voltage will drop off. On computer circuits, this is a real problem. I would spend some time checking this out before going any further.
As your story goes, your buddy was driving it and then it started to sputter and then died and you haven't had it running since.

If you have followed along on our posts over the last few years, you would have seen probably 3 or 4 posts about the electrical connections and high resistance found and especially at the fuse blocks. This ZN you're working on has the 5 fuse block which is common on the KZ plus the 2 fuse block which is the DFI power supply (20A) and LCD fuel gauge and drive computer (1A)

Oh yes aligned timing marks rule out spun timing wheel, i forgot...

Wiring harness and broken wires has been repeatedly in discussion and we have measured some continuency and voltages (coils, ignition box, injectors and so on).
We have to check the voltage to computer.
As we were plowing snow today we talked about compressions and old man told me he made another test and all cylinders are now between six and eight bars, according to service manual this way too low. Piston rings or cracked cylinder head?
Cylinder walls were in good condition visually when head was off.

Does anybody have a picture of choke linkage in working order? There seems to be some parts missing in our system. Choke flaps are fully closed all the time...choke lever does nothing.

Could be wrong here but ...the bike is fuel injected so probably doens't have a choke (the ECU should set the cold idle mixture based on feedback from the air temperature sensor) . Rather the 'choke lever' is just a 'fast-idle' to help with warm-ups.

I think the plates you're looking at are the throttle plates and using the lever should only just bump them open ever so lightly. That's the way my Vulcan works and I always assumed my ZN worked that way too.

Yeah. Owner of this bike started scraping it to pieces but noticed that there seems to be something wrong or missing with throttle linkages. It is kinda last shot to find out if we could somehow fix it.