TOPIC:

ok, opened up the valve cover today and yes the plastic gear is almost gone! ouch! With the zx11 tensioner on, the chain still feels pretty tight though.

Adding to this bad news is another bad news: the PO had two valve cover screws broken stuck in the cylinder head! and they are at the two most hard to reach position around the thermostat. Each screw has about 2mm sticking out of the cylinder head surface. What's the best method to get them out safely?

I can honestly say that is without a doubt, the worst worn tensioning gear I've yet to see. so I'm posting some pictures of tensioner gears in "various stages" of wear so you know what it's suppose to look like.
First pic - A new gear without the bearing installed versus and old reasonably worn gear.


Second pic - A new gear installed and run in with less than 1500 kilometers


Third pic- A new Liska gear (metal) which some of our members have bought and installed Around $100 from Liska. www.liskas.com/kz1300-cam-chain-idler/


Fourth pic- What's considered as a totally gone gear which scored the worst gear ever seen before exploding until now. Yours just scored the new record.


So, you're going to pull the head and replace that gear. While you have the head off, remove those 2 broken valve cover busted bolts. You might get lucky with 2 mm sticking out to be able to get a bite on them with vice grips. It's rare that these would break. Either someone has put in bolts 5mm too long and couldn't get a minor leak to stop and drove the bolts tight into the blind holes in which case you may have to drill and use easy outs to remove. Busted bolts in blind holes are always a bitch. Each one deserves its own consideration before tackling. There are a wealth of "magic tools" available for doing this type of work including but not limited to left hand twist drill bits, easy outs in every type imaginable, EDM which is an arc process which errodes out the broken bolt, cobalt drill bits for hardened material, and the list goes on......
Since you're pulling the head, you may as well get the valves done and for sure, change out the valve seals. All that will put you in a good position to carry on with other things that may crop up. I guess the only good news here is that your engine isn't blown from an exploded tensioning sprocket.

Great write up Kawboy and great gear reference photos. No need for me to write about those broken bolts removal!

As to 'what else'?
There are two rubber dumpers sitting loose on that nylon gear shaft. Pay attention not to drop them in the engine when removing and installing things!
They have a mark 'UP' for correct direction. I smeared them generously with engine assembly lube when installing - helps to keep them in place.

There is a shape in the manual to cut and it will prevent things from falling into the engine when working on the head. This plus rags - I'd use some to plug the opening.

The chains will become loose - make sure to keep tension on them when aligning things and turning the engine (yes, the right cover has to come off, turn the engine by hand clockwise for timing marks)

I'd pay close attention to torque and bolt torquing sequences. It's incredible how much you can't see with a naked eye, but how much in fact these 'solid' metal pieces flex! These cams, for example, are quite long. I've seen shorted broken in half cams because of people torquing them totally out of whack.

I'd replace the valve stem oil seals as well when at it.

I would also suggest removing the oil pan. You might have to do it anyway if you drop something (dumper, washer, shim?), but that's not the real reason. I have a suspicion there might be garbage trapped in the sump screen from that gone gear and else, it's a good time to clean it and any dirt from the bottom of the oil pan. I would definitely put new oil and filter afterwards. You will need to order the gasket as well. This one not a bank breaker fortunately.

I'd suggest again proper Kawasaki head gasket. They are available from dealership.

Side note: IF you were going to remove the water pump for academic or other reason, when installing and removing the water pump shafts - pay attention to properly securing it from turning at the right place with a proper wrench. NOT adjustable. If you slip, you might break another nylon gear down there. You will see it after removing the head.

Nothing more coming to mind at the moment..

Thanks you all for the valuable info. Mine obvioulsy not the record, becasue the FAQ page has one worse than me(mine went in 16 clicks, his 19 clicks):

Just recently I installed a ZX11 tensioner on a motor that had a new idler gear on it and the tensioner only extended one click. I
had put one of these on another motor and it went all the way down 19 clicks. When I pulled the valve cover on that motor the
idler gear was down to the metal bearing. If it had worn any more, it would of eventually split the bearing cover and spit out the
needle bearings all inside the motor. No telling what that would do but it's all bad!

I've ordered a full zn1300 gasket set from Z1 parts, are they good usable gaskets?

I aslo ordered the valve seals, but I've no idea how to change it yet, guess I'd need a specail tool?

I have a couple motorcycle shops around me, I'm thinking maybe I can take the cyclinder head to them and let them change it for me and take out those two broken bolts

I recorded the valve clearance today, and it is just one bad news after another, 5 of them are out the limit by quite a bit, the others are all on the close side of limit, where should I source the replacing shims?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWhere to get shims-
first, take out and measure the shims you need to change and write down the shim sizes that are in and what position they are in.. Then figure out if any of the ones coming out will fit in ine of the other places that need that size shim. Often, you may need to change say 5 shims but 3 of them will fit in a different location and then all you need to get is 2 shims from.....
Some dealerships may offer a shim exchange program. I used a dealership in Toronto Ontario which would exchange shims for $1.00 a piece. Worked for me.
Ebay is a good source.

There are many models of the KZ ( 900 , 1000, 1100 etc) that use the same shim

Better still at half the price of those on EBay, Z1 Enterprises $4.83 www.z1enterprises.com/engine-parts/shims/29mm-shims.html

You are going to do the valves while the head is off right? Don't worry about the shims until the valves have been done. You'll have 12 shims to change for sure.