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Hey all knowing ones, ba ha ha

After some more advice, I finally have the bike on the road at long last. Went for my first ride in the registering process. Noticed that she was hard to get into neutral, felt like the clutch was still dragging???
When I got home recehecked the clutch adjustment as per the manual and went for another ride, still the same.
Gear changing is nice and smooth, just an issue when trying to snick it back into neutral with the engine running. Any ideas greatly accepted.
Thanks in advance

Yup, you got clutch drag. Nice shifting between gears is a natural but trying to put it in neutral when the secondary shaft is stopped and the engine is spinning at 900 rpm absolutely needs freedom between the plates in the clutch.

First off, you have checked the clutch play and still no joy. If that's the case the most logical thing to consider is the oil you're using. If it's not MA spec oil, there's your problem. some oils have friction modifiers in them which will cause the clutch to slip, others have wear inhibitors which will help out with minimizing wear but won't have an adverse effect on the clutch. If you're oil is MA rated AND it's fresh, go to the next check. If it's old oil and I don't care if it's only seen a couple of hundred miles, because even old that's just been sitting in the crankcase will age and as it does will thicken up, you need to change it.

Second, when you checked the clutch play, did you look at the clutch lever under the cover on the left side? Is it 90 degrees to the cable? If not adjust that first, then adjust the cable. next, operate the clutch lever and see how far it has to travel before actuating the clutch lever (under the cover) I've seen old clutch cables and cables that are not routed correctly get adjusted by feel and when operated, half of the travel is used up in taking up the real slack. If that's the case, look at the ends of the clutch cable outer at the ferrules on the ends. If they're not solid, then replace the cable.

Third if that's all good then the last area to look at is the clutch hub and clutch housing. quite often the plates will wear little notches in the hub and the housing and the clutch plates can get hung up in these notches holding the friction plates and steel plates loosely together and that will cause drag. The notches can't be dressed out BUT if there's burrs beside the notches, you can dress those off with a fine file and that will help, not cure but help.

One last item that comes to mind. Some guys with little hands prefer offset clutch levers or other guys just like the looks. In any event, if the clutch lever is not the stock lever, you may not have enough travel period.

That's it, fingers are sore. Good luck.

Thank you for your suggestions Kawboy. The clutch cable is a brand new one and has been routed as per the manual.
I adjusted the clutch as per the workshop manual, firstly I removed the cable from the lever at the handle bar, then adjusted the screw down on the side of the engine by loosening the lock nut, turning it in until it firmed up then backed it out 1/4 of a turn out. Then I reattached the cable at the lever and adjusted it to the required 2-3mm freeplay.
In the process of doing the bike up I put fresh oils/fluids throughout the bike. I purchased the engine oil from my local motorcycle shop, so I can only presume it is motorcycle secific and intended to be used with wet clutches in bikes.
I am pleased that you have confirmed what I was thinking, that my last port of call is the clutch basket with possible wear in the hub. I was considering replacing the plates also just to freshen everything back to where they should be.
Thanks again for your help, will be back in the garage again. Will keep you posted.
Cheers

Now and again i have trouble getting neutral, not all the time, just now and again, so i just turn off bike, get neutral and park it, im usually stopped somewhere i wantt to be anyway

Did you manage to solve your problem? I have the same problem and have been through everything as Kawboy has mentioned, and still have to kill the motor to get it into neutral. I have the plates out again today and placing the steel plates on a flat surface, notice they are all a ball hair from perfectly flat, fractionally warped for a better term! I am assuming that with all the steel plates in this condition, they are taking up any possible freeing of the clutch as a whole, and maintaining pressure on the friction plates.

I have some lash going from neutral to first. I can get to neutral easily though. Shifting to the other gears is smooth enough but I do have some clutch slippage when I come on it hard through second or third.