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.....The other alternative is to install the APE tensioner....... YOU have total control ! No guess work... No springs ! Too simple to ever fail.



I got this one for $45. US .....$5. shipping...............tony

I've done the same mod with the manual tensioner. The springs are fine provided the push rod and "retainer" are both in good shape. If the retainer doesn't lock on to the push rod when the rod extends, there can be some fluttering of the push rod which will translate to fluttering of the cam chain causing wear of the tensioning wheels and gears. I personally don't trust this style of automatic adjusters. With the manual adjuster you have to adjust it and while adjusting you'll be more aware of stretch of the cam chain and better able to monitor your maintenance activities.

Both systems have their pros and cons. You just have to realize what they are and get comfortable with which ever one you choose to go with.

...I agree there Kawboy, I tend to not like "automatic things".....I find care and maintenance of all my bikes ,a pleasure rather than a chore ! I remember all too well about the tensioners of the 80's "chattering" and galling up the shaft the kaw 750 inline fours were famous for this and changed out many ,back when working as a kaw tech at the dealership.
I have not yet installed THIS manual tensioner on my 1300/6 ...but have them on other bikes. It has been just too darn cold here for the last few weeks and I hav'nt even gone out to the shop to start the heaters up. Most mornings are negative #'s and it takes the shop many hours to get up to even around 50 degrees, this Sunday will be March 1st,and temps should start turning around(let's hope)............tony

A LONELY PLACE RIGHT NOW ...NOT MUCH HAPPENING !

It was -18F when I got up this morning. Now it's +16F. Don't see it getting above freezing for another 2 weeks!@#$@!#$

If you want to utilize the original tensioner and be sure that the cam chain does not jump teeth when the original collar (part 6) locking system fails (when worn, it allows the tensioning shaft to slide backwards, the chain to jump and BANG)

You can drill and tap the original body behind the shaft and add a 6 mm bolt with lock nut, this will prevent the shaft from sliding back. Just remember to adjust the bolt periodically.

Another way not requiring any extra work is to change the bolt keeping the shaft within the body to a longer one with lock nut.
Longer bolt allows the bolt end to lock the shaft in place after removing slack. This version does not allow the tensioner to adjust constantly but I have used this in my -82 without any problems. Just remove slack when you change oil and you are fine.

Thanks for sharing that idea ! A great way to utilize what you already have...without spending any money...just a bit of your time !
and we all love to spend time on our bikes !..........tony