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hi pete,
i made this conversion a little while ago and it worked a treat for a while...just recently however, i noticed the bike wasn't running properly.
i checked everything and the last thing was that i re tested the coils primary which all measured around 2.8 ohms.
then i checked secondary, terminal to end of spark lead which i remember once measured the correct amount, now read 1....which suggests the coil is fried.
this is true for all three...so, i guess its back to the drawing board for me, unless you might shine some light where i may have gone wrong..
the ballast resistors were definitely taken out when i introduced the aw82's.......
im thinking now i might go with the accell coils but im worried they might get cooked also....and i dont want to waste $500 to find out.
any hints?

Just an update to my coil and ballast resistor upgrade.  Out of interest, I have measured the operating temperatures of the new ballast resistors using a "k" type thermocouple and digital readout.  I fitted the tip sensitive thermocouple behind the ballast resistor mounting bracket, wedged up against the ceramic resistors. See pic below:
 
I fitted the digital readout to the handlebar clamp using tie wraps - the readout shows the ambient temp in the UK - yes - we're having a heatwave at present!
 
I rode the bike for about an hour, covering motorway (75-80 mph) and also congested city driving.  On the motorway, the temperatures were generally around 32-34 deg C but increased significantly when stuck in traffic to over 50 deg C.  Interestingly, the temperature also rises after switching off the engine when stopping. See below:

I can only conclude that the main source of heat is actually heat soak from the engine and not the current drawn by the ignition system?  My calculations suggest that worst case current draw would equate to about 12 watts of heat to dissipate - probably lower when the engine is running as the current is switched off to initiate a spark - so maybe this is what I should have expected.  Any other thoughts?

The heat-soak is interesting, that's quite a spike.
I've often wondered, as on the one hand the tank tunnel is relatively confined, but on the other hand there's a good chimney effect where the rising air can exit forward up by the headstock.

Very informative thanks.

Fantastic follow up Neville! This brings even more confidence in the chosen direction. If you haven't seen my pics, I have everything installed, and without the 'plasti gauge' test yet, on the peanut tank I have it actually does look like I have enough space there. I am not modifying the bracket for now, leaving things as they are.

I think having the resistors, or not having them, makes a difference. I am glad installing mine, although not tested yet. But soon!

By the way, the photos doesn't show the space in a good way, but gives it some justice. Maybe I'm lucky, but there is lots o space around my resistors, so I am keeping them as they are.

-->>>> THE ATTACHMENT BUTTON DOESN'T WORK. THE BOLD ETC. AND EMOJIS DON'T WORK.

I've just preformed this wonderful fix on my 79 KZ1300 yesterday, works like a charm, and at a minimum cost...
Thank you for this post!