TOPIC:

I know there was talk of the "Motoman break in method" on another of your topics and I've followed that method religiously over the last 40 years with great success. I've had 3 opportunities to work with high performance engine builders who taught me this method. All these guys broke in engines on a dyno. Warm the engine up at 1000 rpm then 3 ten second pulls to half redline with a one minute rest at idle between each pull. Shut the engine down for an hour. Warm the engine up again and then 3 ten second pulls to 3/4 redline again with a one minute idle rest between pulls. Then another cool off for an hour. Repeat the procedure again with 3 ten second pulls to redline and a complete cool down. Break in finished. Period. Go and enjoy it however you ride. The science is there in the motoman video and I've had great success using it. Now all that said, I'm critical of a precision hone and new rings otherwise you're pissing into the wind.
It will be interesting to see how your oil consumption changed after your 150 mile ride. And a word to the wise, keep an eye on your oil consumption until you know how much it drinks. A couple of guys rebuilt engines and then ran them dry and fried their engines.

Kawboy wrote: I know there was talk of the "Motoman break in method" on another of your topics and I've followed that method religiously over the last 40 years with great success. I've had 3 opportunities to work with high performance engine builders who taught me this method. All these guys broke in engines on a dyno. Warm the engine up at 1000 rpm then 3 ten second pulls to half redline with a one minute rest at idle between each pull. Shut the engine down for an hour. Warm the engine up again and then 3 ten second pulls to 3/4 redline again with a one minute idle rest between pulls. Then another cool off for an hour. Repeat the procedure again with 3 ten second pulls to redline and a complete cool down. Break in finished. Period. Go and enjoy it however you ride. The science is there in the motoman video and I've had great success using it. Now all that said, I'm critical of a precision hone and new rings otherwise you're pissing into the wind.
It will be interesting to see how your oil consumption changed after your 150 mile ride. And a word to the wise, keep an eye on your oil consumption until you know
how much it drinks. A couple of guys rebuilt engines and then ran them dry and fried their engines.

I hope oil consumptions settles in. After the 150 mile flogging, level down about 3/8 quart. Yamaha RingFree ordered up and will run, and will follow with immediate oil change.

On the good side, all spark plugs look clean from oil. Clicky Me and running ok, within reason. Not perfect, but OK.

The next issue is fuel delivery and fuel hose routing. Pretty sure not all fuel will make carb intakes given low height differential between tank and carb inlet..

OBTW, with hard running, 27 MPG.

Looking forward to hearing what Scotch has to say about this and advising. Please.

In my opinion, the bike is running too lean for my liking. Carbureted or open loop fuel injection should have center electrodes running on the light brownish color and not white in color. You need to adjust the fuel /air ratio on carbureted or open loop injection (which almost all motorcycles are) to run in a safe range under all conditions. Easy enough done.
Closed loop is a different story and takes more feedback equipment to tell the computer parameters that need to be considered and adjust the fuel ratio and spark timing for. Closed loop was introduced specifically to meet emission standards. Closed loop has O² feedback plus knock sensing on top of air temp, air pressure and engine temperature sensors. The purpose is to run on the leanest fuel ratio possible without blowing up the engine and when pulling sparkplugs and taking a reading, seeing whitish plugs is usually a sign of a well setup/operating system. Close loop systems also have emissions monitoring with some form of visual feedback (check engine light) to tell you when the computer is having trouble meeting O² standards and some form of maintenance is required.
Open loop systems are cheaper to install, easier to set up and far more throttle responsive than closed loop.

Kawboy wrote: Looking forward to hearing what Scotch has to say about this and advising. Please.

In my opinion, the bike is running too lean for my liking. Carbureted or open loop fuel injection should have center electrodes running on the light brownish color and not white in color. You need to adjust the fuel /air ratio on carbureted or open loop injection (which almost all motorcycles are) to run in a safe range under all conditions. Easy enough done.
Closed loop is a different story and takes more feedback equipment to tell the computer parameters that need to be considered and adjust the fuel ratio and spark timing for. Closed loop was introduced specifically to meet emission standards. Closed loop has O² feedback plus knock sensing on top of air temp, air pressure and engine temperature sensors. The purpose is to run on the leanest fuel ratio possible without blowing up the engine and when pulling sparkplugs and taking a reading, seeing whitish plugs is usually a sign of a well setup/operating system. Close loop systems also have emissions monitoring with some form of visual feedback (check engine light) to tell you when the computer is having trouble meeting O² standards and some form of maintenance is required.
Open loop systems are cheaper to install, easier to set up and far more throttle responsive than closed loop.

#6 is the leanest. On one side, white, 180 degrees it's got nice color. Will check for slight vacuum leak.

Also on agenda is to trailer her out to a very secluded road nearby and do proper jetting testing, e.g. run at 1/4 throttle, chop ignition, read plugs, make carb adjustments, run again. Rinse and repeat for 1/2, 3/4, and full throttle. Or just send them off to Old School carbs

Not ignoring this topic. Just don't have anything worth while to add.........yet !

Yesterday flushed the radiator and system twice using distilled water. Got some 'stop leak' debris from the catch tank, but none found from engine. Refilled using Evans waterless coolant. Interesting stuff, that Evans.. with fan disconnected, could not get coolant boil over, temperature needle 1/2 width past top of hot zone when I terminated the burp run. I did get quiet a bit of bubbly action in the catch tank, and the amount of coolant added is very very close to the FSM spec capacity, post burp.

Here's a little video of the coolant change and flush.. carb sync too.