Dion wrote: Hi Graem
thats a stroke of bad luck, my carbs are all in peices at the moment,
what a mess! some one had a field day in their.
had to drill out 2 jets fun times
With respect to Kawboy as i recall he has not done Tig Alloy
Yes you can Tig repair that post, actually very easy, biggest issue with Tig and alloy is make sure all parts are REAL CLEAN,
however just ask if your getting it done if the guy has experience with fine Tig work
you would start off at 90 amps, ramp down to about 50/60 amps as surface starts to change, 1.2mm tig rod 5% silicon will build up nicely.
if the guy is smart enough you can leave the float pin in place and tig up the side and roll the molten alloy over it, that will actually give you the hole so no drilling.
Alloy wont weld to Specifically stainless , but have got away doing this on mild steel also.
a tap with pin punch on the pin will release the pin.
Dion
Kawboy was a TSSA qualified welder in a nuclear power plant with 9 tickets including Tig aluminium pipe TIG copper pipe, Tig carbon steel Tig stainless steel Shielded metal arc in carbon steel and stainless and gas metal arc in carbon steel pipe. 90% of my welds were xray verified. Only the structural welds were either mag particle or dye penetrant inspected.
On my KZ fan shroud, I butt welded half of a fan shroud from a ZRX1200 fan to half of the fan shroud from the KZ1300 to marry up a 6 blade fan to the KZ1300 mount. The butt weld was .020" thick and it was a full penetration weld. So can I weld? Yes Sir.
I have in my garage a Thermal Arc 186 AC/DC stick TIG machine with pulse arc technology and I know how to use it. So when I say it's not an easy weld, it isn't but someone with the skills I have can manage to pull it off. If I were doing it I would do a practice weld on a similar size post to dial in the heat becuase if I overamped it up front, there'd be nothing left of the leg to "reweld up"