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I took these pictures yesterday when I had the carbs off the bike to follow up on some testing with the new float design. Way back in a previous thread: "Floats and fuel line routing" I posted some pictures of this set-up on the bike. These Pictures will add some clarity. When the fuel valve is opened the bowls top-up immediately with two big "gulps". No air-traps/vapor-lock and no needless excess fuel line "snaking" all over the place. It does require drilling-out and tapping the carb.-bodies which may not be for the "faint-of-heart" given that if you "F" it up you could have some "issues".

Just been looking at this thread and got to say like the idea of twin feeds but don't really fancy drilling the carbs. Prob a daft question but couldn't you put another tee in where the straight fuel connector is or is the spacing between the other 2 carbs different?

It's doable.with a custom fitting. The length of the tee is different from the straight tube piece. So you can't "just use 2 tees"

WOW ! Someone did some digging. Good on ya !
Drilling out and tapping the outside ports could be daunting for some. If you've done some tapping (correctly) in the past then it's not a big deal. The carbs must be taken off the bike, split from each other, bowl, float and float-valve removed to do this. A real good close look at the threading after completed is critical. A jewelers loup or something similar is required to inspect the new threads to ensure there are no tiny burrs or fragments anywhere that WILL come free when the fitting is threaded-in and get caught in the float-valve. TRUST ME !
I did the mod for appearance. The ability of two feeds pushing out air if the line is empty doesn't need further explanation. Since that article I've rebuilt it with some nicer looking 90's, a better quality fuel line and home-made aluminum furls . I didn't buy S/S braided fuel line. I stripped the steel-braid cover from another product , slid it over the fuel-line and crimped it to the fittings with my furls (polished -of course) I continue to use 3 spring clamps. 1 to retain the line to the fuel valve, and 2 for the filter. I don't use the small dia. screw clamps. For this application, I hate them ! They can cut the fuel line, don't draw down evenly because of the flat bottom of the screw housing, can be difficult to install and remove depending on where/how they're oriented and can look unsightly ( OK ......I'm Fussy!) A spring-clamp on the tank fuel valve requires a squeeze and slide with a pair of needle-nose pliers. On or off - one move - Done! No pissing around with a screw-driver, nut driver or ratchet/socket and multiple maneuvers.
Keep digging a bit further and you'll find an "Over-Flow" mod that prevents Flooding hydraulically and potential bent rods. And yes, it really works and the two mods could be done at the same time - with the carbs off.
Happy to answer some questions if they arise !