TOPIC:

I've had many questions regarding the brass floats. The most common have been:

Q #1 - " Do I use original float-pin"?
Answer - You can not use the original pin. The OEM float pin is a proprietary diameter (.096") unique to the OEM Nitrophil float. The brass-float uses a standard and readily available 3/32" (.093")diameter Brass pin which fits the brass pivot-arm bushing perfectly. The difference of .003" relative to the pivot-posts float-pin hole dia. is of no consequence.

Q #2 - "How do I adjust the brass-floats to get the correct fuel-level"?
Answer - If adjustment is required the procedure is the same as for the OEM float. Note: After final assembly the brass floats are adjusted to the correct "wet" level using a "1300" throttle-body/bowl, OEM needle-valve. No further adjusting should be necessary. The "wet" fuel-level adjustment must be done "on the bench" with the carbs level. The "wet" method is the only means to set the fuel-level when using these brass-floats. NOTE: Replacing the floats will not correct or compensate for faulty needle-valves, needle valve-body "O"-rings or over pressurization from "fuel-pumps".

Q#3 - "How can your brass-floats work correctly when the original floats are made from a light plastic"?
Answer - The brass floats are actually lighter then the OEM Nitrophil floats.

Q#4 - "Are your brass floats guaranteed"?
Answer: Yes. For 1 year. The brass-floats are tested for leaks no less then 4 times. 3X during the assembly process and 1 final time prior to being bagged for shipment shipped. The wet-float level is set initially after final assembly and is checked again prior to shipping. If a float develops a leak or other defect within the first year I will replace it including the cost of mailing. There is no warranty for Floats returned with any sign of user damage due to mishandling, attempted repairs or modifications. Any float and needle assembly should be considered a precision device and handled accordingly.

Important: The appropriate cautions for working with or near gasoline can not be over-stated and any such work undertaken is done so at the users own risk !

Thanks for the orders and the interest.

I applaud you, Scotch. Truly superb workmanship on your part.
I shall buy a set when - if - I commence restoration of my 1300.

Hi Scotch,

hoping to buy a set next payday

You mention that you test with ethanol free fuel. Will the floats stand up to fuels with ethanol content. I think there is a mandatory ethanol content in all UK petrol/gasoline

I ask this as I have a colleague at work who suffers with brass floats filling with fuel on his e-type Jaguar. He swears it is the ethanol causing the solder to fail.

Regards
David

That could have something valid to it David. We used to get big problems with methanol attacking the zinc cast Mikuni carbs. It could not be left in the bowls even overnight, we used to run petrol through after each meeting to prevent problems. I changed to the injection moulded aluminium 34mm carbs and didn't get the problem. I know ethanol and methanol aren't the same but they share many common properties.

I didn't see the price? What asking the float set?

I can't answer the ethanol/solder concern. I've heard the same stories. I have ever only used premium fuel without additives and the original brass-floats are still floating after 10 years. I mentioned the premium-fuel only because that's what I actually use to set the wet-level in case anyone wondered.

A set of floats c/w with matching (.093") brass pins is $102.00 plus shipping.