TOPIC:

I have had my '80 1300A since new "0" miles. It has been a love/hate relationship dealing with the invisible goblins. As far as starting/idling problems go I now believe that if all electrical/ignition checks-out, the fuel-line system is simplified, and there are no air/vacuum leaks, the float levels are correct ( assuming the floats actually float), and you are still having starting/idling problems it is because the carbs are not clean. I spent many years being frustrated with these issues and have come to one conclusion ( now that I have her starting/running precisely and without fault)......the carbs were NOT clean!!!. In my opinion these carbs are not complex per-say. However if you study them closely they have a network of fuel galleries cast into them to get the idle/low-end fuel to the throttle-bore. Leaving fuel to stand for any significant time guarantees these tiny galleries will varnish and plug. "Cleaning" the carbs does not guarantee the carbs are clean. If you are 100% certain every other condition is perfect and you are continuing to have problems, then remove the carbs and clean them again. From my personal experience I had to do this no less then 6 times before I final got the "crap" removed from the idle circuits. Carb cleaner, lacquer-thinners, solvents of every type, ( I did not have access to ultra-sonic), enough compressed air to supply a planet with an atmosphere - the final solution was to BOIL them. No less then 3X for 30 minutes and with a lot of compressed air ! Unfortunately you will have no way of knowing of your success until it's all back together and it runs or it doesn't. I will also suggest that the Idle/choke adjustment will take some patience getting just right. ( I have mine adjusted so that the bike with start and idle with no choke on a warm day / add a little as required for the chillier days. Within 60 secs or less the choke can be reduced/removed.) I have a DG exhaust and I have not "re-jetted". I simply made my adjustments using the stock needle set for the best plug/exhaust color. The final reward is worth it ! Tech note: Do NOT use your wife's good "soup-pot" to boil the carbs !

NOTE: The seals on the throttle shaft ends could be damaged if soaked excessively in strong cleaners such as lacquer-thinner. The use of lacquer-thinner for manual surface cleaning and gallery flushing using a syringe is OK.

Scotch,
Great post that & some handy tips too.
I am fanatical about Z1300 carbs (know them inside out) & like you have tried many ways to ensure all those tiny fuel & air channels inside are clear.

Many years ago I took a Z1300 carb body that was damaged & cut it up with a small dremel & cutter to see EXACTLY what is inside & how it blocks..........it was a very worthwhile process as it confirmed the channels are very, very small, in particular the ones in the primary circuit.
I then left the cut up pieces & my 3 good bodies in a bath of diesel for a few weeks moving them around every other day or so & it was amazing how it cleaned all the insides & offending pipes & airways. Diesel is a great cleaner & full or detergents but does not spoil aluminum.
I always give them a good blast through with a 100psi line with pointed nozzle before re-assembly.
Like you now I have a Z1300 that I can set up with a Color Tune Plug & Vacuum Gauges to a perfect result & make it idle at 750-800 rpm if I want. It will also pull from 25-30 mph in top gear to well over 100mph without any hesitation at all.
Pete

pete

were youre carbs free of all gaskets and jets when you did this, i.e stripped completely?

Yes ! The only parts left in the carb bodies were the Throttle-shafts and plates. Don't mess with these !!! They are not critical to the cleaning.

NOTE: The seals on the throttle shaft ends could be damaged if soaked excessively in strong cleaners such as lacquer-thinner. The use of lacquer-thinner for manual surface cleaning and gallery flushing using a syringe is OK.

Hello.
I am in need of a set of floats. Are they available.?
Regards Steve.

One set left P.M. me.