TOPIC:

I've been able to fix my flooding carbs before by really polishing up the sealing part of my float needles. Going as far as spending an hour with a box of cotton q-tips and carb cleaner to make 100% sure that those contacting surfaces will seal up. Then attaching a clean hose to the fuel inlet, flipping the assembly upside down and attempting to blow air by mouth into the carbs to be sure every bowl seals up when the floats are lifted. Mind you this would only work if your float levels are ok. At least that's what has worked for me on these carbs .

I've noticed that carbs from other bikes have rubber tips on the float needles. I wonder if those would provide a more reliable seal instead of metal-metal contact. Anyone ever make an attempt at seeing if those will fit?

Well I told you guys I would do and go place's most other people fear to go. First off to get my bike to show blue on a Gunson plug it took 4 turns on the mixture screws but one and it was 3 turns. I don't much care for the mixture screws being out that far the o ring seals is not even tight. So I did what I suggested once on here, I used my wire drill bits and took 5 of the mixture screw jest out 3 steps and the one that was only 3 turns I drilled out one step. Now the Gunson plug see's blue at only 2 to 2 1/2 turns out. I also moved my fuel hose so that it is above the floats and the carbs instead of making a loop down and back up like the factory had it. This keep more pressure on the float needles to help keep them seated. I will say this by opening the mixture jets up just a bit and giving the bike more fuel between 1500 to 3000 has made it run smoother and quicker in the mid range. Sorry guy but I am useing my old carb racing trick on this bike. The stuff I used to use on duel 4's and 6 packs carbs to balance fuel flow.