TOPIC:

Take your factory fitted Electric Shut Off Valve (Fuel Solenoid Valve) with you next time you go for a walk close to the Sea.

When nobody is watching, THROW IT AS FAR INTO THE WATER AS YOU CAN.

It then cannot cause the problems it has for hundreds of users over the years !

The T PIECE does need to be pointing UPWARDS for best route as I explained earlier.

Pete F

Kel

On my Z13 the fuel line was routed on the top of the carbs and I changed it to route downwards as it looks neater but the bike doesn't like that for some reason - it's obviously not getting enough fuel when idling. As you say the T junction pivots so that would make you think it can be routed either way.
On my KZ13 (US spec) the fuel line routes downwards as has done since I bought the bike - no issues at all with it. They both have an inline filter.
Weird !!

strate6 wrote: Take your factory fitted Electric Shut Off Valve (Fuel Solenoid Valve) with you next time you go for a walk close to the Sea.

When nobody is watching, THROW IT AS FAR INTO THE WATER AS YOU CAN.

It then cannot cause the problems it has for hundreds of users over the years !

The T PIECE does need to be pointing UPWARDS for best route as I explained earlier.

Pete F

So should I look to disconnect that Pete?

KEL,

The Fuel Solenoid was fitted to the 1300/6 to prevent the carbs flooding if the fuel tap O Ring fails or allows fuel past when its in the OFF position (which they often do). All the solenoid does is OPEN & allow fuel past with the ignition ON, & CLOSES to stop fuel passing when the ignition is off. In principle it is a good idea, but the solenoid itself was badly made & often did not open when it should & became very intermittent causing starting & running issues. Thats why most have been removed.

The carbs on our 1300/6 bikes are very badly designed & dont have any form of overflow, as most other carbs do. This means if the fuel is not stopped when the bike is not running, it will fill the carbs........then the airbox, then the cylinders, then your crankcases & fill the engine itself.

Believe it or not, this is a common occurrence for those not aware of the problem so you MUST make certain your petrol tap is definitely NOT letting any fuel past when in the OFF position & obviously ALWAYS turn your tap off when not using the bike. This is why many (including me) fit a GPZ900R tap which is vacuum controlled & prevents letting fuel past unless the engine is running.

Over the past 30 years, I have tried EVERY different route of fuel pipe possible from the tap to the carb, and along-with many USA Owners have found the best one is as described earlier in this post, over the top of the carbs. I have had some success with routing it UNDER the carbs & back up to the T Piece, but found supply problems at longer stretches of high revs, which was not the case with the routing over the top of the carbs.

Its also important to use at least 7mm ID fuel pipe. If you use 6mm ID it can be too restrictive.

Hope that helps ?

Pete F
UK

Extremely helpful Pete!
I will look into this when I get to refitting my tank and carbs.

Very helpful Pete.

I fitted a brand new pingel fuel tap and it still leaks fuel when it is off. Might look for one of those GPZ900R fuel taps