TOPIC:

The Plugs look just fine !

Wish my plugs looked that good!

I just wish the d@mn thing would run properly!

It is still spluttering up to 2000 rpm. After that its fine, but tootling through heavy traffic (which we have a lot of in London), its a nightmare!

I have further restricted the airflow to only two air cones after dropping a main jet size and like I said, over 2000 rpm its great, but I think I need to do something with the pilot jets.

And of course after 3 miles it dies with a dead battery as I still have not found the non-charging issues (another thread).

Paul 

{Quote} I have further restricted the airflow to only two air cones after dropping a main jet size and like I said, over 2000 rpm its great, but I think I need to do something with the pilot jets.
I don't understand your thinking here. Restricting the airflow will have more effect on the high rpm area and it's not normal to fix a mixture issue with restricting airflow. Air filters flow the most air when brand new and as they age they clog up restricting airflow which limits power but the carburetor compensates for lower airflow.

You have issues from idle to 2000 rpm so yes, it's a pilot circuit issue. Somewhere in the pilot circuits, you have blockage.

Your charging issue- The stator rotor puts out AC voltage and if it doesn't put out on all 3 phases, you'll have a problem. The regulator rectifier rectifies the AC to DC voltage and then any output over 14.4 volts normally gets shunted to ground ie. shorted to ground BUT this happens in momentary on/off switching of the transistors in the regulator. It's NOT a continuous short to ground and for clarification there are no tests where the output of the regulator is shorted to ground.
I don't know where you sourced your MOSFET regulator but be warned that most if not all of the MOSFETs on EBay are fake copies. I would only trust sellers like RM Stator in Canada or Roadster Cycle in the United States. Roadster is a licenced retailer for Shindengen. RM Stator manufactures there own products but they use high quality components. You get what you pay for at either one of these retailers.
It wouldn't surprise me to hear extended driving in and around city traffic draining battery voltage. The KZ1300 especially the touring and the Voyager have higher voltage draws (radio speakers lights) and the charging system lacks at lower rpms. Everything should be fine running around above 2500 rpm to keep the charging system up. A lot of the problems with charging have been found related to the 6 pin connector between the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator and feeding the regulator . That connector gets hot enough to melt when the resistance in the connector rises due to corrosion. Look there first. Do the stator resistance check between the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator and check between the yellow leads to ground. Follow the Service Manual. If the stator overheated, shorting between phases or shorting to ground may have happened. If all that checks out, then your MOSFET has likely failed. One of the common failures in regulator/rectifiers is a failed diode and when they fail, they allow voltage to flow through the failed diode from + to - and draining the battery. This is usually found when the vehicle is driven home and left overnight and then found with a dead battery in the morning. If nothing was left tuned on overnight and a dead battery in the morning, the regulator rectifier is the first place to look.
Hope this helps,
KB

Going back to your hesitation issue-
Did you start setting up the carbs by syncing the throttle butterflies first?? If not, then attempting to adjust the pilot air mixture screws would be like pissing in the wind. The butterflies need to have equal airflow past the transition ports to draw air/fuel from the pilot circuit and deliver the mixture to the intake port. In my mind, syncing butterflies and adjusting the pilot air screws is something that needs to be done in tandem. Slight changes in the fuel air mixture will have slight changes in the vacuum in the intakes.
If my memory serves me, Scotch recommends bench setting the sync rods by placing pieces of paper between the bottom edge of the butterfly valves and the throttle throat and then starting with all the sync rods loose, then tightening the rods up just to the point where the paper can be pulled out from between the butterfly and the throat. At that point the idle stop screw can be raised to achieve a reasonable idle. Then put the carbs on the bike and start with the pilot air mixture screws 3-1/2 turns out. At that point start up the bike and get the idle in range and then check the vacuum gauges. Minor adjustments starting with the highest vacuum to be dropped first then the lowest vacuum to be raised. Note that if there's more than 4 or 5 In HG difference after the initial mechanical syncing on the bench, something else is off besides the carbs. 

Hi Kawboy,

Thanks for your explanation, that really helps. I shall try solving the charging issue sometime next week as tomorrow the bike is going to the Bike Shed Show in London Tobacco Docks, and for that it just needs to be clean, not running. 

I got my regulator from Roadster, but I have no radio or anything that draws a lot of power, except for maybe my headlight, which is from a 1952 Citroen Traction. And of course the Mo Unit draws some power, but everything is LED. And the battery holds charge overnight. Its just not charging as nothing happens to voltage when revving up... 

On the air issue, remember I have taken off the standard air box and so air is far less restricted - almost no restriction at all and it was running way too rich. So I reduced main jet size and restricted air flow and the bike is running well when over 2000 rpm and a bit leaner (not much soot coming out of exhaust). The carbs are perfectly balanced, but I have not tried adjusting picture when doing vacuum at the same time. I shall try that next week. I will also inspect the pilot jest closely as last time I didn't even look at them. They may be blocked or damaged. 

TBH I really don't mind messing around with the carbs etc, but taking the air box off and back onto the carbs (and I have new rubbers) is such a PITA it really puts me off...  but I guess I'll have to bite through that... 

Thank you! I'll report back when I get to it. Work is nuts at the mo... 

Paul