TOPIC:

Regarding the timing change: Nothing more then starting with the timing being checked to spec. per the registration mark on the timing plate and simply loosening the 3 retaining screws and retarding the timing, by an educated estimate, clock-wise.

One would have thought that retarding the timing from the factory setting would reduce the engine’s power slightly.

At idle, the timing change made the idle increase about 200 RPM.
I had a dialogue with some today who said that the only accurate way of confirming the timing change would be from the timing mark on my rotor. It was pointed out that with 90,000k, wear and stretch will have played negatively on the actual timing.
I'll have to make/print a timing wheel and use it to determine the true timing.

"Good Talk" !

scotch wrote: At idle, the timing change made the idle increase about 200 RPM.
I had a dialogue with some today who said that the only accurate way of confirming the timing change would be from the timing mark on my rotor. It was pointed out that with 90,000k, wear and stretch will have played negatively on the actual timing.
I'll have to make/print a timing wheel and use it to determine the true timing.

"Good Talk" !

Engine wear would change 'cam timing' but not 'ignition timing' - or are you referring to earlier models that had the ignition pickups on a chain driven shaft?

Not that familiar with KZ1300 carbs. Are the ports on the carb that you're blocking/disabling 'air cut off valves'? On my old Honda the 'air cut off valves' are there to shut off air to the idle circuit under high vacuum conditions (i.e.deceleration). Disabling them causes lots of exhaust 'popping' on decel.

The '80's have a gear/chain driven Ignition trigger system.

Can only state that "gutting" and Blocking off the vacuum port to the 3 enrichment diaphragms has had no negative affects for me.