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THE MOMENT OF TRUE. 5 months 1 week ago #31858

  • kawaBCN
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Today I received the MCG chains.

They have been really fast, on Monday I transferred the amount, on Tuesday the order went out and it arrived in a couple of days, crossing two countries.

Saturday afternoon I will start assembling the engine.


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THE MOMENT OF TRUE. 5 months 1 week ago #31859

  • dcarver220b
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A little late.. 
The question now is, how does this circuit really work?
  1. Should coil negative be grounded and the ignitier (Darlington transistors) pulse coil primary to establish field that collaspes and makes secondary high voltage? Or,
  2. Is 12vdc provided from Engine Stop Switch to the Pink wired side of the coils, and then the igniter is breaking current flow, thus inducing a field?
The diagram above shows the entire circuit. 
Diagram above shows how I *think* the circuit works.. 
  1. 12 volts is provided via a 10 amp fuse (#1) Brown wire.
  2. Which then travels up to the Engine Stop Switch (#2, 3, 4)
  3. Then through #5, 6, 7 to igniter / Darlingtons  (yellow red)
  4. Refer to top diagram, the Igniter does it magic to open/make the circuit and induce volts into primary winding?
I think it's how it works..Found more info...The diagram below shows the A1 ignition circuit. From FSM. Coil has been replaced, Resistor as well. So yes, coil + primary side needs to connect Yellow/Red from main harness (which goes to Igniter).
Final question is:
  1. If coil is marked with a positive (+) terminal, should Yellow-Red be connected there? Or from one of the 3 colored wires from the Igniter?

The Yellow / red wire feeds System Voltage to the Ballast Resistor. (System voltage = Battery voltage + charging voltage)
The Ballast Resistor drops the supplied voltage to the coils by inducing a resistance in the circuit
The 3 pink wires feed the reduced voltage after the ballast resistor to the positive terminals of the 3 ignition coils.
The Black, Green and Blue wires coming off of the negative terminals of the ignition coils are switched to ground through the Darlington transistors in the igniter. 


If all you want to do is remove the ballast resistor, then take the 3 pink wires and connect them to the yellow/red wire and you're done. Bob's your Uncle, Mary's your Aunt.  E'tutto Finito

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THE MOMENT OF TRUE. 5 months 1 week ago #31863

  • kawaBCN
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They just called me from the shop where they are repairing the cylinder head.

Two exhaust valves need to be replaced, one bent and the other corroded by rust.


I have already found them at MCG Parts for 40 euros each.
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THE MOMENT OF TRUE. 5 months 1 week ago #31864

  • kawaBCN
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The bad news continues.

Today I removed the connecting rods from the crankshaft and I found the unpleasant surprise that the connecting rod of cylinder 5, the one that had no compression, did not have the original bearings installed, instead I had installed oversized iron ones.

On the right the original.




 


Not-original connecting rod bearing installed.



When searching the MCG PARTS www.z1300.de/  catalog I find two references for the same price, some are "brown" and others are "black."


Can anyone explain to me the difference between them?

Pair bearing shells for connecting rod, black. Price per pair 52.90 euros.

Artikelnummer: MCG 920281050

Pair bearing shells for connecting rod, brown. Price per pair 52.90 euros.

Artikelnummer:  MCG 920281051
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THE MOMENT OF TRUE. 5 months 1 week ago #31865

  • Kawboy
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The colors relate to the journal sizes The black or brown fit different journal sizes.

This is covered in the Service Manual on page 187
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THE MOMENT OF TRUE. 5 months 1 week ago #31866

  • kawaBCN
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It is an engine rebuilt years ago with non-original parts.

I have removed three connecting rod bearings and this number appears on all of them.

D9E

I don't know the manufacturer.



 
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