TOPIC:

Bucko wrote:

Bar wrote: this is how it look on the bike

Hey. Thanks for posting that - considering this option myself. As shown in your picture, the hose droops a bit before it head up towards the handle bards. On the regular clutch cable, moisture accumulates in that 'droop' and causes the cable/jacket to corrode - I have to lube mine several times a season to keep the corrosion at bay so the cable 'pull' will be smooth.

What did you use for a master cylinder (sorry if you've posted that already - I didn't see it.

Also curious how you determined the length of the hydraulic hose you needed - did you used the OEM outer cable length as a guide?

the master cylinder i got on ebay, they have many version and colors, many different looks, but they all will work
if you search for "Motorcycle Hydraulic Brake Master Cylinder and Clutch" you will get many results
the one below is what I used on this bike



in regards to the length of the hydraulic hose, to be honest I had some at home and they fit. but i want to say it is the same length as the original clutch cable
i will measurer and post later

Got to the point I have a rolling chassis but run into few small issues
1. Front brake stick, I think it is results of couple pistons in the caliper that got corroded
Maybe I did not sand them good enough when rebuild or it is the master cylinder.
I will troubleshoot this week.
2. Hydraulic clutch getting tricky, the slave cylinder is leaking, also stick.
As Phil mention in his comment, I hope I will have long enough stroke, all I can find so far is 12mm stroke and I am not sure that will work. I will compete with my other bike and check
If it will cause too many issues, I will have to go back the cable.
3. Broke a brand new water thermostat, didn’t even tight it and it broke in my hand
Other then that it starts to look like a bike again, change all the screws to stainless steel, all over the bike
Hope to finish the front fender and pipes next weekend, then start the fun part, electricity

Bucko wrote:

Bar wrote: this is how it look on the bike

Hey. Thanks for posting that - considering this option myself. As shown in your picture, the hose droops a bit before it head up towards the handle bards. On the regular clutch cable, moisture accumulates in that 'droop' and causes the cable/jacket to corrode - I have to lube mine several times a season to keep the corrosion at bay so the cable 'pull' will be smooth.

What did you use for a master cylinder (sorry if you've posted that already - I didn't see it.

Also curious how you determined the length of the hydraulic hose you needed - did you used the OEM outer cable length as a guide?

in regard to the hose length, I forgot, I change the handle bars and front end, so everything was change, if you use the original handle bars I believe that it need to be the same length as the original.

Phil wrote: I looked into fitting a hydraulic clutch on my ZG (same fuel injected engine as your Voyager) about 10 years ago, as you've probably found it's not easy to fit a slave on the outer cover as you can with the carb models as the casing isn't parallel. I then started looking at the same type of slave as you've used but couldn't find one with a long enough stroke. as the actuating lever on our bikes has a longer stroke than the carb models. But it looks like you've found one with a long enough stroke

Phil, I am running into issues with the hydraulic setup and as you mention, I am not sure i will have long enough stroke
I am not giving up yet but may have to stay with the cable...
will keep you posted on progress

I tried one on my '80. Did not work. Only had 1/2 the stroke required. Was also disappointed when I got it, to see how small in diameter the rod was. Had it worked I would have had less confidence in it then a cable; which I assessed would have a higher breaking strength then the flimsy threads on the rod. I did the commonly accepted Hyd. conversion and glad I did.

scotch wrote: I tried one on my '80. Did not work. Only had 1/2 the stroke required. Was also disappointed when I got it, to see how small in diameter the rod was. Had it worked I would have had less confidence in it then a cable; which I assessed would have a higher breaking strength then the flimsy threads on the rod. I did the commonly accepted Hyd. conversion and glad I did.

Thank you for the Info,
it will be tricky to do common conversion on the Voyager engine