TOPIC:

Tonight I've hit the wall.

After all that work it seems it still running rich. It idles fine but jugging from the smell it's fuel heavy.
when I hit the throttle it backfiring a bit. But it revs nice and steady. it's when i let go the throttle that it backfires a bit,

can it be a timing issue? I really dont think so.
anyway i'm done for tonight.

Sounds like you're fighting a problem with the enrichening diaphram valves (item number 67 of page 51 in the Service Manual). If they are stuck closed, you'll get backfiring on deacceleration. they are located on the top left side of the carbs under the small plate held on with the 3 screws . Pull them off and beware that there is a spring under the plate which holds the diaphram valve in a closed position. Remove the valves and clean the bore in the carb body and I like to polish up the brass valve with Autosol. Ensure that the brass valve slides nicely in the bores and reassemble. That should take care of the backfiring on deacceleration.
These valve open up an air bleed in the idle circuit under high vacuum situations like deacceleration so the engine can't suck fuel through the idle circuit which is what causes the backfiring. They can also stick open and play real havoc with problems trying to get the engine to idle since the idle circuit will be sucking air instead of fuel.

I finally got it. After messing aroung with carb ajustment with no result, I lifted the valve cover to find that it was a timing issue.
I had a half link advance on the cams.

But now I have another issue. With the engine running nicely, i shift it in first gear with the clutch lever fully compressed to realise that the back wheel is turning. I tried to brake it with my foot but I could'nt. So I stop the bike to have a look.

Man this bike is driving me nuts. Drain the oil remove the clutch cover, removed the pressure plate. Tried to turn the inner hub of the clutch while in first gear. It turns but it's damn hard. it should be turning freely. At this point I would appreciate your input. Be fore I go crazy and slip the crankcase open.

Kwakanuk wrote: I finally got it. After messing aroung with carb ajustment with no result, I lifted the valve cover to find that it was a timing issue.
I had a half link advance on the cams.

But now I have another issue. With the engine running nicely, i shift it in first gear with the clutch lever fully compressed to realise that the back wheel is turning. I tried to brake it with my foot but I could'nt. So I stop the bike to have a look.

Man this bike is driving me nuts. Drain the oil remove the clutch cover, removed the pressure plate. Tried to turn the inner hub of the clutch while in first gear. It turns but it's damn hard. it should be turning freely. At this point I would appreciate your input. Be fore I go crazy and slip the crankcase open.

Your cams- If anything you should be half a link retarded. The fact that you're off half a link suggests your camshaft drive chain is stretched beyond service limit and the cams are timed one tooth too far advanced.. I would check the stretch on the chain before going any further. Measurment is in the Service Manual.

This binding in the transmission- Are you checking this free movement with the clutch plates in place? If so, pull the clutch plates and check again. Could be you have plates semi- welded together. Not common, but possible if the clutch was slipping. Seen it before. The other possibility is if the clutch basket has gotten notched. The fiber plates engage with the clutch basket and after time, chatter in between the fiber plates and the clutch basket will cut what looks like teeth in the clutch basket and then the fiber plates can;t release from the steel plates which will cause binding.
Smell the engine oil. Does it smell like burnt plastic? That may tell you that a clutch failure has happened.
Let's hope that after you pull the clutch plates and check for freedom of movement, that all is well and all you have to do is find the binding in the clutch.

A little clutch drag is normal. Any bike I have ever owned will spin slowly with the wheel off the ground and the clutch in. It can even happen in neutral. The weight of the bike should cancel it out. As long as its not pulling against that you should be fine.

Kwaboy the cam drive chain is well within specs, I simply instaled it wrong.
The bike is running fine now. That DG exhaust sounds awesome. I repacked the pipe with new fiberglass. I was suprised that it did not change the sound level that much, just a little deeper.

Ledkz,
Yeah I know it's normal that the wheel spins due to friction between clutch plate while the clutch lever is fully pressed, but it seemed to much drag for safe usage. I took all the plates out of the cluch and loosen the nut completly and it completetly freed the clutch. The main basket was not set completly, so I managed to push it further put the nut back and it did the job.
It still is not to my satisfaction so I will have to do some more tweaking.

Thank you guys for your input.