TOPIC:

U-G-L-Y !!!!!!!!!!

I've seen worse. D. Craver did up a set like these and they're running. Scotch has had a go at a set like these and knowing Scotch, They're mint. It's going to take some work. A good soaking in carb cleaner after you get them all apart and get all of the O-rings out. The ultrasonic will take care of the external surfaces but won't do shit in the passages.

Why is it that all of our poor babies have been left in such poor condition and it takes a bunch of dedicated enthusiasts to fix them up and make them right.

Kawboy wrote: Why is it that all of our poor babies have been left in such poor condition and it takes a bunch of dedicated enthusiasts to fix them up and make them right.

Just makes ya wanna cry, doesn't it? Some people come into some money and go buy a nice bike and then neglect it.


Does anybody else use Marvel Mystery Oil on any of their really hard-stuck parts that have been left out in the weather? I used to restore old tractors and most of the time their engines are stuck, not to mention the guts of their carbs. A liberal application of Marvel once in a while and within a month most parts will come free fairly easily. Not sure just what's in that stuff since it is a very closely guarded secret, but it sure works to break apart the bonds between metal parts. Laquer thinner, WD40 and Marvel Mystery Oil, three shop chems not to be without!

i managed to get 5 pilot jets out and the sixth one is loose it just wont come past the threaded part of the body
im gonna get a gallon of vinegar and soak all the parts for a few hours, that should clean all the internals as well.

Any idea what the fuel injection issues were?

Idle jets that won't come out past the internal "tower-cap threads" can be removed by the following method. It has worked every time for myself - more about patience than technique. The jet will remain trapped as a result of burrs from an improperly fitting bladed screw-driver used in conjunction with "Cro-Magnon" like force having deformed the ends of the slot in the jet.
Once loosened keep wet with WD40 or similar. Carefully turn in 'till it stops and turn out til loose. REPEAT several times.
DO NOT TIGHTEN! Heat the tower with a gentle torch-flame then apply air pressure to the idle circuit intake port on the intake neck of body. Caution here! If you do not have a finger over the tower the jet will go into orbit! I always have a towel on the workbench surface and try do this procedure with the tower facing down (facing the towelled surface) The towel will prevent "ricocheting" !
This method has never failed but in a lot of cases has required repeated attempts. Alternately rotating the jet CCW & CW while applying air can also assist. Keep in mind that the jet is of a harder material than the throttle body. The turning in and out is about loosening any solid material (rust/scale) that may have formed between the threads. The WD40 helps loosen and flush this material away from the jet/tower threads. The repeated turning in and out is as much about wearing some clearance between the tower-threads and jet threads. The internal threads of the tower will be what wears down. This is not detrimental to the tower threads. If the jet is otherwise free it is a good indication that any minute deformities of the jet-slot are minimal and plenty of tower-thread will remain. We're talking about mere .000's" of interference which is keeping the jet trapped.
In the '79 carb rebuild article I made specific reference to requiring 3 separate slotted drivers needed for removing the jets and tower-cap screw. Pre-soaking with WD40 ( or penetrating oil of your choice) and with a correctly fitting driver and a light tap with a light hammer to set the driver end into the slots and to loosen the threads/break free rust/scale debris.? Some heat works well here too ! Hope this helps

Phil wrote: Any idea what the fuel injection issues were?

apparently the engine started bogging around 4000 rpm.
i was told that they tried everything, changed all the sensors including TPS no joy. even bought a new DFI ECU.
someone told them to do a compression test which turned out a bit low so the engine was bored to get the compression back up.
just after that the carbs were tried without success.
since the bore and the rebuild the motor has done 2000 miles.
the guy parked it in the corner in disgust and went and bought a GSX1400 and was very happy. good move to be honest.
so when i get it back together i will have a bit of fault finding to do.