Fuel Solenoid

Stupid question time.....
The fuel solenoid is purely there just to provide positive fuel shut-off should you forget to turn the fuel tap off, correct? I can't see it serving any other function.
My solenoid is stuffed (not surprisingly), so am tossing up whether to replace it with an an aftermarket one, or just leave it out completely.

Also, any reason why Kawasaki decided a simple solenoid needs 4x wires running to it when 2 would do the trick? I haven't looked into it, but I assume a simple 2x wire one can be made to work using the standard loom connection for the OEM one?

Thanks.

Without going into the reasons as to why it was fitted the majority of people have discarded there's and run without it. The downside to this is these bikes are prone to fuel running from the tank gravity fed if not isolated at the tap and filling your engine full of fuel. Others will probably advise on fitting vacuum taps or another type. If you remove suggest you get into the habit of isolating the fuel every time you get off the bike

Mark is spot on here IMHO !

The Z1300 fuel solenoid is a horrible little device which very often locks itself closed or partly closed.
This results in the bike being starved of fuel and not starting or running eratically.

My advice............for what its worth.............remove and throw it away and form a habit to turn your fuel off after using the bike.

Pete F
UK

Thanks.
Was what I was thinking.
I'll just get into the habit of turning it off when I park up.
Shouldn't be an issue as it will be going on a battery tender after each ride so I'll make a habit of doing it then.
Cheers.

Mine has the solenoid removed, I've had the "habit" of turning bike taps off for donkeys years after filling an engine with petrol once. I don't however turn it off when I know I'm going back to it shortly , I don't suppose there is a rule of thumb how long it's ok to leave the tap on ,20mins....2hrs ..not at all?

Just read my question back..bit of a stupid one...I'll just turn it off :whistle:

The reason for the extra wires is because it's tied to the cutoff switch on the clutch. With the bike off, it will only open with the kill switch set to 'run' AND the clutch lever pulled in. Once the engine is running and the stator is energized, you can release the clutch and it will, in theory, stay open.

In practice, the second part usually fails, so it will only open with the clutch pulled in. I fixed mine by removing the spring inside it. It still looks stock, but functions as just another part of the fuel line. I just remember to shut the petcock off.

A novel attempt at a common problem, but WAY overcomplicated, and poorly implemented.