Fork Seal Replacement, (a mini how-to)

Fork Seal Replacement

Sorry for re-direct but pics don't easily transfer from my CandyButtAssociation website.

Just a thought Don.
if the dampening rod bolt doesn't tighten, won't the fork oil leak out past the bolt?

Kawboy, It's very snug, just not fully tight. And I use these oil pan washers from BMW to be sure.



I need to read the manual to see if there's a tool to keep the inners from rotating when attempting to tighten the lower fork leg bolt.

Don

FWIW Don, I've run into this before and found that if I used my 1/2" air impact and blipped the trigger it would spin the bolt fast enough to get the bolt to bite. Once it was nipped up, I get the torque wrench out and finish it off. You could probably achieve the same thing with an electric drill if you don't have an impact.

This is a pretty common issue on forks of this type of construction. I had the same issue when I rebuilt the forks on my GT750. The solution was to use a 1/2” thick rod about 3’ long, I ground a 4 sided point on the end of the rod and I slid it down the fork stanchion to hold the inner tube in place when tightening the bolt. I had to do this when I rebuilt the forks on the Z1300.

You can use the existing copper sealing washers If you anneal them. Just heat them up to a dull red colour and then quench them in water. I always put a smear of 3 bond on the sealing washers.

Broom handle.