Brake bleeding

Some recent dialogue about bleeding brakes prompts a concern which hasn't been mentioned. Dust-caps should always be installed to prevent dirt and debris from getting into the open end of the nipple. Any dirt around or in these bleeders can potentially enter the caliper causing leaks, so make certain they are clean before proceeding!

Totally agree with you Scotch. One could say bleeding brakes in reverse flow is an abnormal maintenance activity, although necessary. If there was an crud in the bleeder fitting, it would get pushed into the brake system and that's not good. Best to keep those rubber caps in place and replace them when they get soft and oversized.

I am a firm believer in doing it a bit different than pushing fluid AND air down the hoses. I use a device I built to fill the calipers up to the inlet ports and hoses, and up to the master. It is basically a pump type oil can filled with brake fluid. When I get the system filled, fluid up into the reservoir via the bleed port, I let the system sit for a few minutes, then, come back and remove the master from the bar, or, tilt the bar do the bleed port is the highest point, and gently pump the brake lever until all the air has been expelled through the bleed port.

It works well for me, and, the time it takes, is short, compared to pushing air down the system and out the calipers.

Also, I don't use the KZ calipers on my bikes, they don't work as well as I like. The EX, and other 600cc range Kawasaki sport bikes have systems that use a dual piston caliper, and with a simple adapter, work well on our disks. Just feels, and stops a whole bunch better than stock. Standard 13 master works, as well.

usakz1300 wrote: I am a firm believer in doing it a bit different than pushing fluid AND air down the hoses. I use a device I built to fill the calipers up to the inlet ports and hoses, and up to the master. It is basically a pump type oil can filled with brake fluid. When I get the system filled, fluid up into the reservoir via the bleed port, I let the system sit for a few minutes, then, come back and remove the master from the bar, or, tilt the bar do the bleed port is the highest point, and gently pump the brake lever until all the air has been expelled through the bleed port.

It works well for me, and, the time it takes, is short, compared to pushing air down the system and out the calipers.

Also, I don't use the KZ calipers on my bikes, they don't work as well as I like. The EX, and other 600cc range Kawasaki sport bikes have systems that use a dual piston caliper, and with a simple adapter, work well on our disks. Just feels, and stops a whole bunch better than stock. Standard 13 master works, as well.

I've been using a 50cc syringe with a small length of clear hose to reverse bleed systems for many years now. Cheap and works really well once you get the hang of it.

The beauty of the syringe is you can either push or pull the fluid through the bleed nipple as many times as you like to ensure all the air is gone - and there is minimal wastage.

Hi all
i just bought one of these off Ebay about $5.00
my Daughter likes to help so is good compromise
i have used a small can with air pressure to bleed never had a problem, open everything up and let it go,(no never had aerated fluid!)
have used syringe thats good, but need a descent size syringe if your trying to completely flush or fill the lines!.
some manufacturers have a habit of sticking the bleed valve in the wrong place (with thought to where it will be when the caliper is mounted) so if you dont have pressure systems to help its just as easy to unbolt the caliper turn it to a position where the bleed valve is highest , as long as their is fluid in a clear bottle and your hose is in it, you can just pump away, the air will bleed out.
My 996 rear brake requires removal to clear the last air (due to incorrect bleed screw positioning) hey its Italian!
just remember to put some thing between the pads if bleeding off the bike.
Dion